If you ever doubted the impact of Alexander McQueen’s SS10 Plato’s Atlantis collection, you can sea it for yourself in the works of these designers.
His influence, like a body of water, ran down stream at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, surfacing over the last couple of days.
Not that they were the first this season to show sea-inspired collections (or, for that matter, to be inspired by McQueen), but in the works of Amit Aggarwal, Pankaj and Nidhi Ahuja and Joyjit Talukdar, I could immediately see what the tentacles of Lee’s legacy had touched.
Visual vortex at Morphe by Amit Aggarwal, SS12.
It's been an ocean of digitized prints ever since Plato's Atlantis - seen here at Pankaj and Nidhi's SS12 show.
A subtler take on the depths of the ocean at Ela by Joyjit Talukdar
It goes to show you that we may be worlds apart, but oceans unite us.
You know the one – you wore it years ago, for that pop of colour – back when pop music was heard on the spirit of radio?
I opted for electric blue when fluorescent colours were all the rage back then. It was under the radar, over ultra-glow, neon yellows, pinks, oranges and greens. I had electric blue socks and an over-sized, handknit mohair cardi in the same hue. I always wore it with black.
Call it brilliant blue, electric blue, cerulean, azure or phthalo - it’s back with a vibrant vengeance.
I’ve been collecting these images for several seasons now. At first, there were random outbursts of colour…but collections for Spring and Fall 2011 are saturated in blue notes – from couture to common, everyday fashion.
These are not your mother’s blues, my dears. These are make-an-entrance, knock-em-dead outfits that will have reds blushing.
Pimp and Circums-dance: Gucci's decked out '70s disco ladies for FW11. Love the deep red, glossy lip as a contrast to the blue - a new view for my eyes.
Look what the wind blue in – can you imagine these next two on a breezy day? (Note, I didn’t say windy – a subtle breeze is all we want.)
You'd be nothing short of electrifying in this pant/gown combination from Stéphane Rolland, from his Fall 2010 Couture collection. Je need.
Fringin' Fabulous: Emily Blunt, wearing Tom Ford SS11 in the January 2011 issue of Harper's Bazaar UK.
Or you can create your own movement and express yourself…
Debbie Harry spins circles in electric blue in Blondie's Call Me video, 1980.
…the Expressionists certainly did.
Five Women in the Street by Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, 1913.
This Christian Siriano ruffled dress from FW10 belongs in a painting, no?
Whether in a painting or at a dance, these rich shades and fabrics will have you panting for more.
1950s dance dress from Shrimpton Couture - you make me feel like dancing, I wanna dance the night away...
The shades from season to season vary slightly, but there is a boldness in each blue.
What a tangled blue web we weave - Gaultier Spring 2010 Couture.
Mabille showed a split personality for his Spring 2010 Couture show - part of which was blue.
I was obsessed with phthalo blue in my art school years – it had a depth and transparency all at once. Currently, I am obsessed with this gorgeous gown from Bibhu Mohapatra, which to me, exhibits the same qualities – it’s just frothy enough and yet solid in that impeccable neckline and romantic in that empire waistline. I would love to wear this to an art opening, to bring the phthalo full circle.
Frothy, without the frou at Bibhu Mohapatra, SS11.
Even if it’s a darker blue like navy or midnight, it’s a change from the LBD for evening.
Sweetheart, I'm yours - Armani Cruise 2011.
Wayne Clark - a true blue Canadian couturier - did this perfect layered dress in the '80s. This one is sold on Shrimpton Couture - sorry darlings.
It’s also a great way to add a little flair to your day.
Blue-accented grey, tailored glen plaid gets a soft, billowy blue jacket at Pringle, FW11.
The opposite sich at Stella SS10 - a crisp jacket covers looser pants.
I love how the suit has returned, but in what I call Suit 2.0 – the more social, interactive suit – it allows a girl to move. This shade will also make you stand out in the corporate hierarchy.
Slant twist on a classic blue suit at Costume National SS11.
And quite frankly, also at fashion fêtes the world over – because everyone else will be wearing buh-lack.
It looks just as great in "real life" - front-row-seaters Stafania Rocca and Fabio Novembre at the Costume show.
Imagine this on a dreary and rainy day.
Military or Mod? A coat from the Burberry FW10 show.
In this Rachel Roy, you can slink just about anywhere…but might need your own soundtrack to accompany you.
Rachel Roy shows how sexy a suit can be - from her SS10 collection.
You can toy with your multiple personalities.
Viktor and Rolf - always playing around with how to present their clothes. This suit comes in life-size versions, aussi.
The men can play this game, too.
A colour-blocked coat at Dries Menswear FW11.
Jonathan Saunders had a similar thought - only he was seeing double blue for FW11.
Flirt with as much – or as little colour as you can handle. And be sure to coordinate it with your landscape du jour.
I loved this image by Garance Doré, taken on Ipanema Beach last summer – the play of sunlight, the Louboutin sole against the patent blue, against the straw and sand.
It perfectly captures the energy of Rio as I imagine it to be. “Tall and tan and young and lovely…the girl from Ipanema goes walking and when she passes, each one she passes goes Ahhhhh…”
They know how to do colour on Ipanema Beach. Not sure which I love more in this photo by Garance Doré.
You might have to change your tune and give a nod to Mod with these on.
1960s Carnaby Street strutters, according to Pierre Cardin - part of the Bata Shoe Museum collection. I photographed these on a visit last Spring.
And really, could a post like this be complete without a couple of pairs of Blue Suede Shoes?
Strapped and ready to stroll. Hermès SS10 sandals.
Punk prancers by YSL for FW10.
My head is now exploding with musical references from punk days (mohawk heels, anyone?) to the glitz and groove of glam rock. Perfect boots to Do the Strand in?
These Givenchy Spring 2010 Couture boots are not only glam, they are glam rock, baby.
These had me taking steps a few hundred years back.
Velvet crush: Alberta Ferretti goes medieval mod for FW11.
If you can’t walk a mile in those shoes, perhaps you can add a not so subtle bauble to your otherwise neutral ensemble?
This Rado Blue Fascination Jubilé timekeeper has an 18K gold bracelet with 206 diamonds, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal face and hi-tech ceramic bracelet. Did your heart just skip a beat or few? It will set you back a cool 40K at Birks.
Oh, and let me borrow it? My cost per wear would be sky-high, since I only dabble in colour on occasion.
Keep Feeling Fascination: Rado's Blue Fascination watch.
So, really, this colour has you covered.
Peek-a-blue: I see you. JPG Spring 2010 Couture millinery at its finest.
It may be a cool tone, but its intensity will have you energized.
Clearly, I am taken with this Gucci topper - I'll add it to the list.
The trick to looking chic: a turquoise Treacy. Top marks.
It will leave you – electrified.
We're gonna rock down to Electric Avenue. Armani Privé Spring 2011.
I’ll have the remaining blue-hued images for you in part deux (yes, there are more if you can believe it).
Image Sources: 1. Vogue.com; 2. Elle.com; 3. Harper’s Bazaar UK; 4. You Tube; 5. Stegosauro; 6. NY Post; 7. Shrimpton Couture; 8, 9. Style.com; 10. Courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra; 11. Style.com; 12. Shrimpton Couture; 13. Vogue.com; 14. WWD; 15. Elle.com; 16. Courtesy of Costume National; 17. Getty Images; 18. Style.com; 19. Courtesy of Viktor and Rolf; 20. Style.com; 21. Vogue.com; 22. Garance Dore; 23. Pierre Cardin Shoes at the Bata photographed by Me; 24-26 Style.com; 27. Vogue.com; 28. Courtesy of Rado; 29. Style.com; 30. Vogue.com; 31. Luxury Emporium; 32. Vogue.com.
Call it global warming, climate change or just plain summer – whatever the explanation, this past week has brought unbearable heat to many corners of our world. When it’s this hot, there is only one thing to wear – white, from head to toe.
Fortunately, there are many inspiring white-hot looks from the Spring Summer 2010 collections and beyond, to choose from.
Hussein Chalayan’s collection was one of my favourites this season. Usually, it’s too conceptual for even me – but along with those wonderful hand detail white gowns, there were many unexpected classic day looks. The man who once gave us mechanical dresses opted for Capri glamour, with a bit of edge thrown in.
I know many shun the Capri pant but it will never leave my closet. Here, it is perfect – a slim leg, a curvaceous jodhpur-esque quality and cinched flatteringly with a black belt to accentuate the waist. Plus, the sweep of that chapeau will protect you from the molto caldo Med sun.
Can you see the view from the cliffs in the distance, bella?
Chalayan does classic capris for SS10
For the second day on the Italian isle, you might as well wear Italian. Another favourite collection this season was Bottega Veneta. The detailing and splashes of colour remind us why Bottega is true luxury – it’s in a class all its own. The boning in the corset and the tailoring is impeccable here. [I'll share more of my Bottega faves in an upcoming post.]
Cool, through to the bone.
And while I’m not ready to wear a jumpsuit, they have grown on me. Especially, this one by Stella McCartney. But Stella, please do feed the models, ya?
One piece and you are dressed - for a city walk or an evening out.
I’m also loving the return of the wide pant. I have been silly over skinnies for seasons and seasons, but swishing wide pants make you feel six feet tall. The long and lean effect of the pants is only increased by the symphony of a single colour from head to toe.
Naeem Khan embellished his version with beading, while Francisco Costa contrasted sheer pants with platform wedges.
Naeem Khan SS10 chalk chic
Sheer genius at Calvin Klein SS10
The dramatic swish of a dress at Bottega SS10
Whether it was a transparent layer of waves on a dress, a pouf of a sleeve or a sweet kiss of colour, there was drama to be had one way or another.
Vanessa Paradis in a backless, frayed number in Vs. Magazine, Spring Summer 2010 issue. Love the simple hair and those unfinished edges.
Who says you can only be sexy in a little black dress? L'Wren Scott's signature silhouette for SS10.
Tiered ruffles at Givenchy SS10
When I was looking through hundreds of images, I was amazed at the flow of shapes amongst such diverse designers. The ruffles above, echoed those in the Margiela Couture collection and that asymmetry was picked up by Amit Agarwal and Gauri and Nainika Karan.
Maison Martin Margiela Couture SS10
Amit Agarwal's sari-esque toga dress for SS10
Perfect asymmetry at Gauri and Nainika SS10
Whether you like soft and sheer, dramatic or structured, there was an all-white look to suit you. The jacket options alone, were pristine. The zippered, cropped biker jacket at Akris is a great option for those lacking in curves. It gives good shoulder, too.
Crop to it. Akris SS10.
The play of ruffles versus tailoring works well in this ensemble by Hermes, as worked by Chanel Iman for Vogue China’s June issue.
Chanel Iman photographed by Thomas Schenk
Tiers of joy by Edward Fong, FW09.
Lauren Graham at the Parenthood premiere earlier this year.
Jeremy Laing's flap jacket for SS10.
I first noticed the structured white in Todd Lynn’s FW09 collection. Was Lynn, a fellow Canadian, designing the perfect outfit for cocktails in Quebec’s Ice Hotel?
Todd Lynn's FW09 ice capades.
That tuft of fur showed up in Ungaro’s collection for SS10 – for those cool evenings by the sea, perhaps? [Fur was also in scads of FW10 collections - blame marketing for that one. More to follow as the weather cools down enough to talk fur.]
"Who stole my heart? You did, you did..."
"...Bow to the target. Blame cupid, cupid."
There were interesting bits and pieces thrown into Spring collections – otherwise normally reserved for cooler temperatures. ‘Summer’ boots are everywhere, but I am not about to deprive my painted toes from seeing daylight for these few short months.
Summer boots from Margiela?
One thing that I know for sure is the impact a glorious blanc dress can make for a glam evening out. Diane Kruger confirmed that, didn’t she?
A couple of other simple options beyond Kruger’s Calvin Klein gown include a column from Yigal and a daring slit and slinky gown from Chalayan.
Dreamy white column dress at Yigal Azrouël SS10.
Slink or swim. Hussein Chalayan SS10.
The ones that made me gasp out loud, however, were these… Tarun Tahiliani mixed chiffon, silk and fringe for a goddess-worthy gown.
Tarun Tahiliani's white chiffon shimmy from FW09. Photo by Vinod Kumar.
This regal option from Givenchy’s FW09 Couture collection still makes me dream of other worlds.
Queen-worthy couture.
But my favourite whites?
Nothing – absolutely nothing touches the grace and presence of Maharani Sita Devi of Baroda – in a classic white sari and polki set. Yes, those are diamonds. [I'll tell you her story one of these days, too - a fascinating tale of gems.]
Ah, to live the maharani dream. In another life, perhaps…
Photos: Agarwal, Gauri & Nainika, Tahiliani images courtesy of Vogue India. Vs. Mag, Edward Fong, Lauren Graham and Chanel Iman images courtesy of TFS. Maharani image source. MMM boot image source. All others from Style.com and WWD. Song lyrics from Poison Arrow, by ABC.
Burberry has become ubiquitous nowadays. If you don’t think so, consider where the brand was a year ago and think of the number of times you’ve heard about them or come across the big B just in your daily travels recently.
Whether your encounter is of the human variety where an infamous check or trench walks by you on a regular basis (on person or pooch), or whether your encounter is more intimate – in your closet or on your laptop, perhaps – Burberry items are coveted.
The company has been making a big social media splash with partners like Scott Schuman who recently photographed the Art of the Trench campaign. They also streamed their show online like a closet-full of other global brands, but in a key distinguishing move, they made the goods that you viewed available for order at the same time. Other brands have yet to leverage the immediate, impulse buying power of the web in the same way. Burberry knew the emotional connection their audience had with them – they built up the hype around the show and made us all a part of it. We now had access, not only to a front row seat, but to the front of the buyer’s list.
Burberry and its head of creative everything – one Christopher Bailey – have become household names (at least in chic households the world over). As a sidenote, I’m wondering why Bailey wasn’t on the Fast Company 100 Most Creative People in Business list, released earlier today? Food for thought.
Well, his efforts aren’t for nought. Numbers, you see, don’t lie. WWD reported (also this morning) that the company’s profits this year until March 31st rose to 82.2 million pounds, or $131.5 million (USD). That’s a sales spike of 6.5 percent – spiked sky-high boots for FW10 not yet accounted for (but they are on my shopping list – and likely yours, too).
Compare that to last year, when the brand actually registered a loss of 5.1 million pounds, or $8.2 million (USD).
Sales rose to 1.28 billion pounds, or $2.04 billion (USD). Chief executive Angela Ahrendts told WWD about the future: “Looking forward, while mindful of the economic environment, Burberry plans to build on its strong financial position by accelerating investment in growth initiatives in retail, digital, and new markets, while continuing to enhance the brand.”
It goes to show you, while there were twists and turns in their path, Burberry is a brand (k)notto be messed with. Here are a few of my faves from the SS10 collection.
Twisted sister at Burberry
Ravishing in ruched trousers
Knotted and besotted - the classic trench swishes and sashays.
Every story has twists. Just keep moving forward.
All figures (and quote) from WWD. Images from Style.com.
As I look out at snow-covered rooftops (we haven’t had many in Canada this year, but we did manage to get a snow blitz the last few days), I am reminded by the colourful fashion images on my laptop that Spring is indeed around the corner.
In India today, they are welcoming Spring with the kaleidoscope of colours that is Holi – a festival devoted to rang and the welcoming of the season and all its glorious hues.
The recent Spring 2010 collections have virtually every colour within that kaleidoscope to choose from.
An illustration welcoming the season, from Satya Paul.
Poised in pink at Wendell Rodricks SS10.
Scarlet - not for the weak of sartorial heart.
Scarlet Lanvin SS10 - the full view, with shoes to match. Natch.
Extra strong mustard at Bottega, in the classic weave clutch.
Opting for drama at McQueen Pre-Spring 2010.
Stripes and structure at McQueen PS10.
Completely unstructured at Stella SS10. This dress needs an island breeze, n'est pas?
Miyake captures the Holi splattered shirt, perfectly.
Lanvin also does the one-colour look, complete with clutch. Drama at every angle.
A man all too familiar with drama - the demure kind. Haider Ackerman does haldi for Holi!
Galliano's 40s siren in fire engine red, for Dior SS10.
Slanted seductresses at Gaultier.
You don't need a ballgown for evening with this long jacket and flowy pants from Max Mara.
The classic Indian "combination" of fuchsia and hot orange at Stella.
Ballooned beauty at Gaurii and Nainika SS10.
McQueen's lemon yellow gown from PS10. Not a sour note around.
The 50s silhoutette at Rochas gets the floral treatment.
Love the minimalism of this dress with the perfect shoe at Ungaro - lets the colour speak for itself.
Chartreuse charms at Rochas SS10.
Liquid plum satin and the perfect shoulder at Talbot Runhof SS10. Je want. But please, not those shoes. I need the pointiest silver slings with mine.
The navy blue of the west, meets the navy blue of India - pink - at Ungaro.
A walking work of art, at Viktor & Rolf SS10.
Take mini, add colour, add frou and pouf! You have instant glamour at Valli.
Paisley perfection at Preeti Kapoor. I don't just want this. I neeeeed it.
Whether you celebrate it or not…
May your path be strewn with the petals of Spring and may everything you touch turn to exuberant, vivid, spectacular colour!
H O L I H A I ! ! !
Illustration courtesy of Satya Paul. India Fashion Week images courtesy of Yahoo India except for Preeti K image, which is courtesy of MSN India. All other images courtesy of Style.com.
The first day of Fall is tomorrow, but I have Spring Fever!
First there was New York Fashion Week - which for all intents and purposes – was a bit of a yawner. [Don't worry, the non-yawny bits will be featured here in the coming weeks.]
God bless the Brits, then for their interpretation of Spring.
Take these two examples from Matthew Williamson.
As an owner of one of his wonderful dresses, I can attest to the fact that this Brit put the rock in frock!
If you don’t already know it, Jeremy Laing is a star. His SS10 collection at New York Fashion Week is living proof.
The collection combined Laing’s perfect cuts and edge with a good use of mathematics. Yes, you heard me correctly – math. Laing must have had his ruler and calculator out to come up with these clothes that define beautiful geometry to my eyes.
The stuff that gave me nightmares in high school can finally be used for good.
Here are a few snippets from the Yigal Azrouël collection from New York Fashion Week.
His collection combined simple fabrics, asymmetrical lines and a little drape to create just enough drama, without over-acting.
There were these gorgeous column dresses, flattering to curves and angles, alike.
Now that's a good use of grey t-shirt jersey!
Dreamy white column dress at Yigal Azrouël SS10 show.
This drapy dress would look great over skinnies or the new, shorter peg pant.
Love the dramatic flap on this vest – a big item for both this Fall and next Spring.
And the lines on both the bikini top and pants are a great mix. I’d pair it with a structured, closed, black jacket for day and this floaty silk number for evening.
Angular and angellic at Yigal Azrouël
There were lots of beautiful things on his runway, including the designer himself.
