Booked!

Hold the presses. Kindly set down the Kindle. Transfer your eyes from your tablet.

These fab fashion mavens all have books brewing. Soonish.

Black, white and read. Grace Coddington photographed by Andreea Macri.

Ms. Coddington has just inked a $1.2 MM USD deal with Random House. Her memoirs will be co-written with ghost (and Vogue) writer, Michael Roberts. I cannot wait to hear the stories of her visual world of wizardry. Harry Potter who?

The new Mrs. Hince is being encouraged by her hubby to write her rockstar-life-story as well. However, given Kate’s passion for privacy (she doesn’t really do the interview thing, for one), this one is a juicy rumour. For now.

Even so, I had to include her on this list – because this picture was just too perfect – and spoke well beyond a thousand words.

(And yes, my darlings, I owe you Moss marriage snaps. Have them all saved for you!)

Kate Moss reading in Italian Vogue, 1995. Note the title of the book! Photo by Sante D'Orazio.

Ms. Guinness has been reborn after playing dead not once, but twice in recent months (not to mention the acting, the performance art, photography and numerous other projects). She is also busy working with Valerie Steele on her upcoming exhibition for the Museum at FIT. An accompanying book will be released in October. I’ll, of course, have more on all of the above because, well, she is my fairy goth-mother after all.

The cover of the book, due out in late October by Valerie Steele and Daphne Guinness as co-authors.

And of course, Carine’s book comes out in October aussi.

The glossy book that Mme Roitfeld has in the works.

(Now would be a good time to get a cup of soothing tea because I know you are panting with anticipation. Make sure the pants are at least FW11 crazy-wide. There’s more…)

I have some good news about one of our fave fashion journos. Hilary Alexander isn’t leaving the fashion industry. She announced earlier this year that she would be retiring from the Telegraph. (My heart sank. Did yours?) Although she has semi-retired from the paper, she will still be published there until next June. The fab news is that Ms. Alexander doesn’t feel she can ever truly retire from a world she loves so much. I, for one, am thankful because I’d have missed her point of view terribly.

Well, word on the runway is that she, too is working on an autobiography - due out next summer. And – she hasn’t ruled out a documentary or TV deal, as she told British Vogue recently. Hoorah!

Hilary, talking to her doppelgänger doll at her send-off, earlier this year.

When Hilary speaks...

...us dolls listen.

Another rumour (you saw it coming, didn’t you?) is that the other famous editor and newly minted web chic is supposedly working on her very own autobiography. It’s being denied by the Vogue camp, but I hope it’s true – I want to hear her stories in Ms. Wintour’s own words. That unauthorized bio a few years back was painful to get through, to say the least.

..and I told two friends, and they told two friends...and so on...and so on...and so on...

I know, I know – it all seems too long to wait. Well, I have a fashion snack for you until then. Re-releases of two books about the editor who started it all – Diana Vreeland - have recently hit virtual and actual bookshelves.

I found Diana Vreeland: An Illustrated Biography by Eleanor Dwight, in hardcover on a sale table a few years ago, but will have to pick up the paperback of DV – her autobiography.

Diana: double the fun.

Time to clean out your bookshelves and make room for the tasty tomes to come, my dears. The first of them will be ready and perfect for cozy reading this Fall. Better than cashmere, no?

Images: Grace Coddington photographed by Andreea Macri; Kate Moss photographed by Sante D’Orazio for Vogue Italia, 1995 via TFS; Daphne Guinness and Carine Roitfeld book covers courtesy of Amazon.ca; Hilary Alexander party pics courtesy of Vogue UK; Anna Wintour photo by Mario Testino courtesy of WSJ; Diana Vreeland book cover photo via Miss Omni Media.

Reflections

Last April, I wrote about the Victoria and Albert Museum’s wedding photo archive.

Today, I received a comment from Kelly Joy, who found the post and saw her own wedding photo on this blog!

After just over a year of writing in this space, I have been reflecting upon what else I want to do here (this is the reason you haven’t seen a flurry of posts from me, lately).

Kelly’s comment was a nice reminder for me about how a medium like this one can connect you with someone across the world, as easily as it can with someone across the street.

She shared her photo with the V&A. I came across and it immediately smiled at the joy emanating from it, so I shared it with all of you. She came upon it over a year later and reached out to me.

The thread of that brilliant fuchsia dress has woven a path. It shows you how small the world is and how connected we all are.

To some, fashion can be frivolous. To the rest of us, it can be symbolic, powerful, it can mark a time in history, it can transcend borders and limits, it can make you gasp with joy or disbelief.

Ask a woman about a dress and she will tell you a story about a part of her life.

And isn’t sharing our stories what life is all about?

Upon reflection, it seems our dresses come with stories. McQueen's brilliant gold and black coat dress from his final collection.

The Virtual Fashionistas

Sooo, a crazy thing happened to me the other week. I was included in a feature article in a national daily in India!

The piece, by Haimanti Mukherjee, takes a look at lifestyle bloggers in the Motherland and beyond for the Mail Today – a paper featuring  “News for the new Indian” – and part of The India Today Group.

You can flip through the whole e-paper version here (it’s on pages 24-25), or click the images below for a larger view of the article.

I was honoured to have been included in the piece.

That's me (on the left) in Motherland media!

India's Mail Today newspaper, March 31, 2010

Update April 7: The html version of the article is also on the India Today website.

Mwah Toronto!

Dear Toronto (and beyond),

Thank you for your love and support this week. As the co-organizer of Social Media Week Toronto (Feb 1-5, 2010), I had the chance to meet so many wonderul people In Real Life, via Twitter, via email, etc and to take part in the creation of over 35 events about social media and how it influences our lives.

It was such a brilliant week, filled with so much great energy and so many lovely people – participants, peers, panelists.

I am behind in @replying, in emailing, in writing for this space and will catch up slowly in the days to come.

In the meantime, I send you all mass love – and a big fat crystallized kiss, courtesy of Mr. McQueen.

MWAH! McQueen lip belt from FW09.

You can find out what happened – one tweet at a time – via #smwto on Twitter. I’ll, of course, have a recap of the Architects of Community and Having @Style  panels later this week.

Photo courtesy of Net-a-Porter.com.

Purrrfect Stilts

Women have been on a perpectual quest for years.

Every woman I know, in fact, is looking for it.

It’s come up in countless dinner/coffee/cocktail conversations with friends/colleagues/perfect strangers in line at the post office.

No, it’s not the quest for happiness (well, maybe in a way?), or the ideal relationship, a way to manage all your social media inboxes or even world peace.

It’s the search for the perfect black shoe x 2.

Well, darlings, your search is over. If the shoe fits…by all means, wear it!

Mr. McQueen. Of course.

Is it wrong to be in love with a shoe?

Available at www.alexandermcqueen.com.

Déjà Vu: Modern Matajis

Sabyasachi Mukherjee almost always gets it right, when mixing modernity with the traditions of the Motherland.

I love that his clothes respect the culture from which they originate. Rich brocades, pashminas and luscious jewel tones are all an essential part of his creative toolkit. In a time when India is embracing the Western way of life at breakneck speed, he reminds us that it’s okay to be true to your culture.

While everyone else does skinnies, he sticks with the churidaar but makes it out of sheer chiffon – or is it georgette?

While everyone shortens up, he keeps the longer kurta.

While everyone uncovers, he even covers the head – a true sign of respect.

Dignity, beauty and tradition intact @ Sabyasachi FW09

A Sabyasachi earthy, textured look from a previous season or two.

What’s interesting to me is that while India is obsessed with the West, so many in that hemisphere are looking Eastward.

Missoni’s FW09 collection surely had some roots in the deserts of Rajasthan, no?

Missoni's Modern Mataji of Milan?

Missoni image from Style.com. Sabyasachi images from Rediff.

B+ for +J

Jil Sander’s +J line for Uniqlo is in its second season, with the SS10 collection hitting this side of the Atlantic in days.

The collection was already big in Japan and other parts of  Asia on December 23rd. The UK got it Jan 7th, the Soho store in NYC will get the goods Jan 14th and the shiny new Parisian Uniqlo boutique at Place de l’opera will get things on Jan 20th. (There was still scaffolding around the store to come when I was in Paris in the Fall and the mini boutique in Colette had a very small selection of the basics only but not +J as yet).

Here are some store shots from WWD, along with a look at the SS10 ad campaign.

The perfect white jacket.

There's no down-side to an up-turned collar.

Crisp as a Spring breeze. +J SS10 men's collection.

Shirt-style jacket at +J.

Looking good is as simple as black and white.

Or is black the new black?

Wait a minute. Colour at Jil Sander? The puffy pastels are the reason they lost a grade in my book. Down from an A+.

Now that's better. The perfect trench - with a twist.

Great dressing, all wrapped up at +J SS10.

I don’t usually make this statement: but I like the Spring collection better than Fall.

Images courtesy of WWD, Models.com, Esper.

Imbalanced @ Balenciaga

I loved the perfect imbalance in this image for Balenciaga’s Spring 2010 women’s ad campaign.

It’s whimsical, no?

[Click to get a larger view.]

Balenciaga Spring 2010 ad campaign photo will look great on billboards.

Image courtesy of Balenciaga.

Holt’s Jolt

Big news in Canadian retail today…changes at the haute seat at Holt Renfrew.

Caryn Lerner is out as president and CEO.

Mark Derbyshire is in.

Derbyshire was formerly the chief talent scout for Holt Renfrew’s holding company.

So, an HR guy is now running HR.

Here’s hoping he can inject some new talent into Holt’s.

The retailer needs a bit of a makeover.

Lerner will stay on as an independent consultant with the holding company.

With files from WWD.

Invested or Not?

A couple of rumours about fash and the cash that fuels the creative fire behind it…

First, at Lanvin.

New muscle at Lanvin? A look from Lanvin's SS10 men's collection.

Turns out that the investor/buyer of that 12.5% stake the company sold last November could be Ralph Bartel. He’s the Chairman of Travelzoo – the online travel firm in New York. Interesting, given the digital dipping that is going on by all the luxe brands these days.

As per WWD, Bartel could not be reached for comment and Lanvin declined all comment.

Hmmmmm…

Second, a similar denial at Prada.

There were rumours that the company was selling a stake to Compagnie Financière Richemont SA. Don’t know Richemont? But you do know Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Chloé, yes? That’s them.

Prada says non è vero (not true). Richemont says they don’t comment on rumours.

Hmmmm…

We’ll keep our ears where our heels should be – to the ground…

Fall 09 "cover up" Prada boots

With files from WWD.

Lanvin image courtesy of The Fashionisto, Prada image courtesy of Flairvoyant.

Jacket Required

Let’s face it. Fashion is fickle.

Certainly not faceless fashion at Rajesh Pratap Singh FW09

While we women may dabble in a trend here, a fad there, some key fashion staples hold our closets in place.

One of those binders is the jacket, or blazer (a term my Brit friends love to hate).

Great jackets were all over the collections for FW09, and into Spring and Pre-Fall 2010. [Incidentally, my visual senses aren't there yet so I will catch up on the best of both those seasons as the weather starts to change and you lot are psychologically prepared to digest them.]

While I love classic lines, a suit or a jacket needs to have some sort of a twist to make it un-boring. A jacket needs to have impact.

The un-boring jacket @ Rajesh Pratap Singh

The impact was certainly intact at Rajesh Pratap Singh’s FW09 show at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week.

Reminds me of Rothko - be your own abstract expressionist.

These jackets embrace you, play up your strengths, tell a story and still remember your curves.

The long...

...and the short of it.

In each of these cases, a jacket is definitely required.

Images courtesy of WLIFW.

Gothenticity 2

When we last left our exploration of Gothenticity, we were speaking of the Victorians and their musings over dark, albeit ladylike duds.

Black Eyed Suzie doll by Sarah Faber

That Victorian influence is still evident today in dresses like the one by Olivier Theyskens in the last post or this one by goth guy, Lee McQueen.

The sweeping gown is still there but paired with leather sky-high boots.

The jet jewels remain but the influence is Indian – which is particularly clever of McQueen to make reference to.

McQueen's mod goth goddess for FW08

You see, the British Raj of India had begun in 1858, so there was travel and trade going on between the countries at the time.

Mira Nair makes many visual mentions of this in Vanity Fair, starring Reese Witherspoon (who incidentally, has worn lots of stuff by Olivier and McQueen – in fashion’s six degrees of separation).

Passion and practicality amongst the pashminas in Mira Nair's take on Vanity Fair.

That was the latter half of the 19th Century.

Goth glamour saw a major revival in the very late 1970s and early ’80s – again, in the birthplace of cool – England.

Bands like Siouxsie and the Banshees, The Cure (whose lead singer was also a member of the Banshees in the early days), The Damned, the Sisters of Mercy and Bauhaus embraced this love of all things dark.

They wore black (not new by any means) and had crazy hair, taking points (no pun intended) from the King’s Road punk kids that preceded them by a year or two.

Dear prudence, won't you come out to play? Siouxsie Sioux in all of her gothentic glory.

Siouxsie Sioux is still one of the strongest, most original women in music as far as I’m concerned. She epitomized glam as we knew it then – well before I was versed in the couture or courtly definitions of it.

Her make-up was flawless and we all wanted that hair, that presence. It’s because of women like her that today’s pop tarts can even imagine a musical and pop-cultural career. Siouxsie Sioux is gothentic – she was then and is now.

Authentic isn’t a word you use very often these days when referring to music or fashion.

And the man that started a musical revolution without even knowing it (not to mention the countless boys and girls walking around with smudged red lipstick) is Robert Smith. His look was usually simple back then: all black, big hair, pointy shoes, black eyeliner with a few variations here and there.

Robert Smith: Dressing up to be all this.

I remember being in a car as we pulled into the parking lot for a Cure concert I attended. The line-up had one running silhouette: trench coat, skinny pants, pointy, exaggerated shoes and big, big, spiky hair. The colour story of that line was all black, of course. That was the power of Smith’s fashion influence.

When he switched to a white shirt, we gasped and shuddered, but wore one ourselves nonetheless. When that white shirt became a polo shirt and the hair got cut, we almost defected, our eyeliner running from the tears… But then, Robert went back to being Robert and we breathed a sigh of relief.

With all of the 1980s influences in fashion of late, it wasn’t a surprise when leather, black and a motorcyle jacket appeared on Even Biddell’s runway. I loved its pairing with a flowy skirt – it made for a striking contrast.

Evan Biddell's FW09 runway. Photo by Angela Y. Martin.

Evan B's modern goth rock chick for SS10. Photo by Angela Y. Martin.

Biddell isn’t the only one with an obvious love of the dark. Gareth Pugh is all over it and I particularly love Todd Lynn’s lanky ladies lurking down the runway.

Lynn's tall, dark and then-some look for FW09. Je want.

What is it with Canadians and our goth obsession? Hmmm…

I remember stumbling into another great Canadian designer’s store for the first time in 1984…Pam Chorley’s Fashion Crimes boutique. It was a magical wonderland, chock full of feathers and other finery. Wherever you looked, it was a visual smorgasbord. And when I say chock full – I mean packed to the ceiling and every nook covered in a thousand accessories.

The boutique moved across the street, to a much larger (and brighter!) location and is still an integral part of Queen West today. I’m still glad I have the original in my fashion memory. I won’t give away my silk, American penny button blouse bought there ages ago, out of sheer nostalgia. I also have great new pieces bought on a recent summertime stroll.

Accessories by Fashion Crimes, Toronto.

So, imagine my delight when I attended the Gothic: Dark Glamour exhibition at FIT in NYC a couple of years ago, with B. Valerie Steele did the period such divine justice with the exhibit and in her excellent book by the same name.

Now there’s a conversation I’d love to get lost in – a dinner with Ms. Steele on the topic of gothic fashion. I’ll add it to my list of couture dreams, I suppose.

The cover of Valerie Steele's excellent tome on the topic.

One of the dresses from the exhibition: Ricardo Tischi's goth gown for Givenchy Haute Couture, FW06.

Another look from the ex: McQueen's crossed and ruffled gown from FW07

So whether it’s the rustle of a ruffle that rocks your world…

Chanel Couture FW09

…or you like a dash more drama…

Ann Demeulemeester FW09

…gothenticity can be had from head…

J Smith Esquire top hat, as seen in the exhibition, Gothic: Dark Glamour.

…to toe.

Givenchy Couture FW09

In the next part of the series, we’ll discuss goth goddesses du jour.

Image sources: Black Eyed Suzie, McQueen FW08, Todd Lynn, Chanel, Ann D, Givenchy Couture looks  from Style.com, Vanity Fair film still, Siouxsie, Robert, Evan Bidell runway photos courtesy of Angela Martin Photography, Gothic: Dark Glam cover and fashion photos courtesy of FIT Museum, Fashion Crimes blog.

Resolution or Revolution?

It’s a New Year, my fashion friends. Put on your shiny new outfit and…

Resolve…to sparkle.

"Christmas Girl" by Lauren Bishop

Resolve to…never forget tradition and where you came from.

"India" by Lauren Bishop

Resolve to…travel, to do and learn something new.

Illustration for London Fashion Week by Lauren Bishop

Resolve to…be beautiful – inside and out.

"The Luxe" by Lauren Bishop

These beautiful illustrations are the work of Lauren Bishop, based in the UK.  They inspired me as I kicked off my year, so I asked Lauren…

JM: What inspires you?
LB: I am inspired by many things – fashion photography, pattern, textile prints, nature, the female figure, interior design and graphic design. Other illustrators who inspire me are Jason Brooks and Jasper Goodall, amongst others.

JM: How long have you been doing fashion illustration?
LB: I have been working as a freelance fashion illustrator for about five years now.

JM: What will be your personal fashion must-have, as you head into 2010?
LB: Fashion must haves for me this year are – anything from Nicole Richie’s House of Harlow 1960 jewelry line, anything turquoise and a gorgeous ruffled dress.

Here’s to ruffles, rich tussar silks, pointy, pointy shoes, the continuity of couture, burgeoning young designers in their studio flats sewing until the wee hours, to trailing black gowns, diamond spider webs and drool-worthy mughal jewels and all the other fantastical, inspirational, gasp-causing, lip-biting accoutrements that make up the intricate fashion web.

Here’s to thousands more of them this decade!

Will your voice be part of that fashion revolution?

Galavanting 2

It’s party frock season. Thought you might need some inspiration for your New Year’s Eve attire tomorrow night. We can’t all afford these gorge gowns but they will give you some ideas about shapes, proportions and colour.

Let’s continue galavanting, shall we?

Adding some frou always works – whether it’s in the form of bows, feathers or a little lace.

Alexis Mabille Haute Couture FW09

You could take a simpler, white, strapless or sleeveless dress, add a feather boa and maybe a wide, black ribbon tied around your arm or wrist in a bow, borrowing from Monsieur Mabille?

And those T-strap sandals? I have a great pair from Nine West so you can get the look without spending a fortune.

The Chanel Haute Couture collection for FW09 was not up to its usual standards, but I liked the intricacy of these lace dresses. You can easily find elements like this in vintage pieces. I was in Kensington Market in Toronto just yesterday and saw lots of black lace and chiffon. I don’t do strapless, so I’d throw a crisp, white shirt under this one…

Chanel Haute Couture FW09

…or you could just take a regular LBD that’s in your closet and add a lace bag or gloves – easily found in vintage shops – wherever you live.

Chanel Haute Couture FW09

I love the petal effect on this David Dixon dress – plus, it won’t kill your budget like Chanel HC!

David Dixon gown, SS10. Photo by Angela Y. Martin

The next two examples are all about shape.

Have curves. Will travel.

I adore the idea of a jacket and long skirt and lu-uv this silhouette. (Sorry, what’s that? I couldn’t hear you from inside your closet as you look for the similar items you may already have!) I’ve been following David Dixon’s work since the mid-90s and this is a man who knows his clients (and us women!) very well.

David Dixon FW09. Photo by Angela Y. Martin

This dress by Tarun Tahiliani needs its own soundtrack. Of course, you will want the actual dress, but in a pinch, you can take that slinky top you already have, put on the widest and flingiest pair of black pants OR the curviest skirt you own, throw in a statement necklace and voila! You will ring in the New Year with drama!

Tarun Tahiliani FW09 dress. Photo by Vinod Kumar.

If shaped and fitted isn’t your thing, opt for a flowy vibe. This ’70s inspired paisley gown from Etro is one of my all-time favourites. I know fashion fate will lead me to it one of these days…

One from my fashion archives from a few years ago - Etro's paisley gown.

The colours from Bottega Veneta and Ranna Gill provide nice options if black is blasé where you are concerned.

Bottega Veneta gown from the Resort 2010 collection.

Ranna Gill's colour blocked column from SS09.

This David Dixon frock combines leather and tie-died silk – adding structure and movement all in one shot.

David Dixon FW10. Photo by Angela Y. Martin

And now you social butterflies can have it all – a shorter shift with a longer, chiffon overlay.

Gaurav Gupta FW09 - the long and the short of evening dressing.

For me, the colour of choice would be a gorgeous green. Here are a couple of other favourites from my archives…first, a McQueen fit for a modern goddess…

Alexander McQueen's green Grecian goddess from FW07.

…and this divine creation for Gucci by Mr. Ford – why saunter when you can slink your way into 2010?

Gucci's glamazon from FW04

No matter how you ring in the New Year, do it with style, grace and a dash of inspiration…

Sources: Mabille photo from Getty Images, Bottega, Chanel, Gucci, McQueen photos from Style.com. David Dixon photos courtesy of AYM Photography. Gill photo courtesy of Ranna Gill. Tahiliani and Gupta photos courtesy of WLIFW. Etro image courtesy of Neiman Marcus.

Winter Luxessity

I know technically it’s not the Arctic tundra.

I know there are no yaks running around.

But Toronto was cccccold today.

So I found myself dreaming of winter luxessities from Hermès.

Keeping toasty in the Himalayas: Hermès FW 08/09 Indian Winter Campaign

Raquel Zimmerman in Hermès FW 09/10 . That coat appears in my couture dreams.

Hermès FW 08/09 Indian Winter Campaign

The skirt and Jypsiere bag from the Indian Winter Campaign still make my heart flutter.

Hermès FW 08/09 Indian Winter Campaign. The colours of the Motherland amidst a winter wonderland.

Still piling on the pashminas in FW09/10.

The perfect companions: a mini Siberian Husky and a So Kellly Bag from the FW09/10 campaign

Message to you, Ru-dy: Bring mama Hermès for 2010!

Just looking at these images makes me feel warm and cozy.

Images courtesy of fashiontography and luxuo.