Cozy Cozy at BrrrBerry

I woke up this morning feeling a little Mod.

Something about October makes me miss London, lots…so I put on my belted trench, a skinny ankle-length pant and my well-worn pointy double-decker-red boots.

Fashion can transport you to places you cannot immediately travel to.

After a Bloor Street meeting this morning (in Toronto), I zipped in to Burberry to visit my would-be zippered military coat from the FW10 Burberry Prorsum collection. I’ve seen a picture of my love but we haven’t been formally introduced.

Hip, unzipped at Burberry Prorsum FW10.

The decadence is in the details, darling.

I also wanted to see the Winter Storms capsule collection up close.

I have to say my visit was nothing short of cozy.

Now if you know this space, you know that I was not in that store with the intention of writing about it, nor did the olive over-the-knee snakeskin stilts arrive at my doorstep to entice me (can you check the doorstep again – are you sure they aren’t magically there?).

Ode to a boot. The stuff of poetry - Edwardian or otherwise.

I was a Mod girl on a mad, military (coat) mission.

From the moment I walked in, I was greeted warmly by two gentlemen – security and sales. I inquired about the specific items I was seeking and the sales gentleman knew exactly of which coats I spoke. A true professional, he told me they were being unwrapped “just now”. We both did that shoulder raise/gush that a kid in a candy store does. A good sales professional not only knows his stuff, he feels and shares your excitement about the right coat.

On the second floor, a Prorsum bag called my name as I arrived. Quite the stud. Then the perfect riding boot interrupted us. And when I say perfect, I mean Edwardian with edge. Now if only I could find a gentleman that fit that description…but I digress…

I was given breathing room to experience the collection on my own and just when a question entered my mind, a lovely woman breezed by and said she’d be with me in a moment. Impeccable.

The half-zip military coat was AWOL this visit – the only two in Toronto are in someone else’s closets (lucky girls). Winter Storms were just blowing in, but the one on the top of my list hasn’t arrived yet. However, I am now on their list, without having to ask.  Another gentleman who was folding gorgeous bordeaux sweaters within hearing distance also joined the conversation.

Burberry has been a brand to watch for some time now. The collection has gotten stronger each season for the past few years with Christopher Bailey’s creative direction – the clothes are appealing to multiple ages and have the rare combination of quality, wearability and (forgive me, Christopher) a new wave-length. They’ve really embraced digital media, launched a Beauty line and their sales figures don’t lie – they’re a fashion force to be reckoned with.

However, for me, the brand’s true value was crystal clear with my experience in the store today.

This is a company that really understands people. They’ve taken the time to train, educate and empower their front-line employees. They are engaged about the pieces – the woman I dealt with not only knew the entire season’s collection, she praised that Bailey had “outdone himself this season” (a genuine sentiment – and one I happen to share). She brought out a few pieces for me to try that hadn’t hit the sales floor yet, noted other items I expressed interest in, yet didn’t push me towards a single one. She also understood my aesthetic almost immediately, instinctually.

So with all this talk of branding these days by non-marketers (I’m a card-carrying member of 15 years), it’s wonderful to see a company actually practice all 360-degrees of it.

Those coats are toasty, but that lovely energy will keep everyone warm all winter.

As I was leaving, I not only got a goodbye and thank you downstairs, but a familiar voice – or three were heard overhead. Vintage – and rare Thompson Twins.

And the circle is complete.

[I'll be posting more of my faves from the women's collection in the coming weeks. The Burberry FW10 Menswear collection was very New Model Army and a little Modern Maharajah.]

Army: Entrenched for Fall

Stock up on army gear this Spring. 

Not only is it all over this season’s looks, but it looks like the military muse is firmly entrenched in Fall Winter 10/11 as well.

The Dries show during Paris Fashion Week gave us one of the best examples of it, with this killer trench.

Je want.

Beauty, on duty at Dries Van Noten, FW10.

 Photo: WWD

Capris Come Back

Capris, over-the-knee boots, pointy shoes, asymmetry, jodhpurs - these are trends to some but have always been members of my fashion cabinet.

I have loved and worn capris for as long as I have loved fashion (those who know me, know that I remain loyal to my true loves – they just become updated versions in my closet).

Capris have been given a bad wrap in recent years. They have been relegated to the mall and the proportions have been way off. I have never liked the wide capri, or the casual, shorter version. To me, capris should be skinny or slightly flared,  and always, always, always well cut and proportioned.

Thanks to Giles Deacon, the tailored capri is back. Paired with a silk cap-sleeve blouse and a slingback, they are picture perfect.

Capris, captured perfectly at Giles FW10.

Déjà Vu: Sole Similarity

Watching the Gucci live stream from Milan earlier, I did a double take when I saw these sandals from the label’s FW10 collection.

Sandals with socks @ Gucci FW10/11.

Well, they are the sole sisters (no DNA test required) of these Other Italians…by Miuccia Prada for FW07.

Two panel sandal with semi-socks @ Prada FW07.

I didn’t like the Prada ones at all until I saw Giovanna Battaglia in them, as captured by Sart. The lighter ones really do look like the Guccis, don’t they?

A sartorialist shot by The Sartorialist, September 2007.

Shoe shots from Style.com. Giovanna photo by Scott Schuman.

Day One at Milan Fashion Week Rides Into Sunset After All

I was about to declare day one at Milan Fashion Week a yawner…

Dolce and Gabbana did cable knit onesies, fur shorts and furrier mukluks. Practical, no? DSquared did apres ski much better in recent years. So did Valentino (sigh, that chalet in the documentary!) and Chanel.

Prada usually doesn’t interest me. A nice dress silhouette or two and the rest is frumpy to my eyes. Yes, yes, I know…Miuccia revolutionized fashion… (sorry, those seats are taken in my world).

Don’t care for Cavalli.

Fendi had some interesting layering but was ho-hum for the most part.

And then, ciao amore! Krizia saved the day.

Leather jodhpurs, olive leather (or is it satin?) bondage and a fantastic balloon sleeve.

Krizia rides high for FW10

It’s a little Montana meets Amelia Earhart meets cyborg. Love.

Image courtesy of WWD.

Déjà Vu: Imprinted to a Tee

Is it me or do these two dresses from the recent Fall Winter 2010 collections look a little more than similar?

Betsey Johnson's animal print scoop neck t-shirt dress for FW10.

Jeremy Scott's scoop neck print dress for FW10.

The expression and hair on Scott’s model also reminds me of Supe, Karen Mulder.

Johnson image courtesy of Village Voice. Scott image courtesy of WWD.

The Coatdress Returns at Berardi

London Fashion Week had frocks.

London even had smocks.

But for me, the talk and the walk stopped at these elegant coatdresses, which had all the elements of style, locked!

Purrrfect tailoring and details at Berardi FW10. Already on my Fall wish list.

Tuxedo dressing at Berardi. Just add boots and bag, preferably in a contrasting colour.

Don’t even get me started on the burgundy lip. For me, it’s never left!

Images courtesy of WWD.

Tell Me Why…

…I don’t like Mondays…

…but I do-hoo-hoo-hoo-hoo-hoooo…like Mr. Geldof’s offspring Pixie in this little number from Ms. Westwood.

Pixie Geldof, rocking the runway at Westwood FW10.

Classic Westwoood off the shoulder? Check.

Gothic black? Check. Military? Check.

Requisite tattoos? Check.

Bleached hair? Check.

Scowl? Check.

Cross to bear? Cross to wear? Definitely, both.

Image from Style.com.

Frocks Rock at London Fashion Week

Everyone in London was frocking out for Fall Winter 2010.

Girlishness is in – whether it’s the sweet girl next door or the bad girl of the rock star variety.

It doesn’t matter what type of girl you are – the London lot of designers want you to look like one.

In a proper dress.

Erdem Moralioglu continues his floral fancy for Fall.

While Erdem is known for his optical floral prints, a few others took a walk down the garden path also. Surprisingly, one of them was Christopher Kane.

Yes, the sunflowers are on black patent leather, but still they are flowers!

Christopher Kane FW10

Vivienne Westwood Red Label FW10

Auntie Viv optimized her florals and colours for maximum impact. These are more colours than I wear in a week, but I adore the in-your-faceness of the look. She certainly doesn’t bore you, does she?

As a side note, promptly after this show, Ms. Westwood advised us to put an end to consumerism and to not buy any of her clothes.

Oh, to have a pot of tea with my Auntie Viv one day – if only to intently listen to the best British accent. Ever.

Paul Smith's pretty ladies FW10

Speaking of proper Brits, Mr. Smith has come for dinner and he’s brought a few ladies with him. What’s a frock without some flounce, I always say. The rest of the collection was very English as well…I’ll show you more of that in context as the Fall Fashion Weeks actually start to contextualize as a unified story or three.

Softeness at Paul Smith, neatly belted.

The florals got curvier at Berardi – a man who knows how to cut a piece of fabric.

The panel chooses this panelled dress by Antonio Berardi FW10.

I love the echo of this past Fall and Spring’s big shoulder, the brocade mixed with what can only be a stretch crepe or jersey – it makes a vintage-y fabric wearable and young. The slit is perfect in its asymmetry and that neckline? That neckline is divine beauty. You wouldn’t catch me in sheer hose and  pumps with a dress, so I’d wear this with a pointy, butter-soft leather stiletto boot – in a forest green if I could find it – or in black, in a pinch. And remember that Tom Ford for Gucci long to there clutch? Can’t you see it here, held by the tip, sashaying with your walk?

This other option, also from Mr. Berardi is more true to his form – more structured and angular – but those angles never interfere with a woman’s curves. One of my favourite things in my own closet is a Berardi suit.

A complex form is as simple as black and white at Berardi FW10.

So, the London lesson for today is that frocks are props for all walks of life.

Mind your manners and pick up a few. Please and thanks.

Oh, but not Auntie Viv’s. We don’t want to be all consumer-y.

Westwood image from Style.com. All other images from WWD.

YSL Men’s FW10/11

YSL kicked off their men’s collection with this steamy short film by Bruce Weber. [Warning: there is nudity.]

Here’s a video of the full collection. Beautiful fabrics and pieces overall – things that I would love to wear, but don’t necessarily want to see on my future husband.

You’ll see snippets of the details I loved in upcoming posts.

Déjà Vu: Men in Skirts (again)

Men in skirts are not new, but have been showing up in more than a few places recently.

So, it wasn’t that exactly that had me doing a déjà vu.

It was the fact that this Pringle of Scotland men’s look from their recent FW10 collection…

…looked so much like this one from Mr. McQueen’s FW09 men’s collection.

Alexander McQueen menswear show, Fall 2009

Truth is, I like them both. The lapel and piping on the Pringle jacket is perfect and I love the length of the skirt.

Here are a couple of others, layered with argyles and tweeds.

Tweed 3-piece Suit from Pringle of Scotland FW10

Highland Honey @ Pringle of Scotland

Both Pringle and McQueen have roots in Scotland, so I can see the reason why…

There, men in skirts are a part of the cultural fabric.

Photos: McQueen from NY Mag, Pringle from Vogue.

Armed and Dangerous

The men’s FW 2010 collections are downright provocative.

First, there was the New Model Army at Burberry.

Then there was the right to bare arms at Dolce and Gabbana.

Sizzling Sicilian Soldiers?

Carabinieri Caldo?

Things are getting heated in men’s fashion.

Baring his arms, soul and a little more, while donning the new long-john legging pant for men at Dolce and Gabanna FW10.

Images courtesy of Fashionising.

New Model Army @ Burberry

Roll call.

Christopher Bailey?

Present, sirs!

"You say you want a revolution...Well, you know..." -Beatles

Mr. Bailey continues to Show Up, time and time again, with utter and total presence.

His men’s FW10/11 show in Milan was true to form – and will likely become the uniform for gentleman the world over.

"And a corporal sneers at a catholic boy. And he eyes his gun like a rich man's toy. He's killing more than celtic joy." -Aztec Camera

"Tore down the House of Commons in your brand new shoes..." - The Jam

"There are no frontiers that we can't cross tonight." -The Alarm

Bailey’s men are not over-the-top suited power players or grungy vagabonds or the cashmere elite.

His are a new model army of modern, everyday gentlemen, be they rock stars or the divine digerati.

"We are not young and beautiful, we are not rich and bold. And we are not your people who bought the dreams you sold." -New Model Army

"Did you see the stylish kids in the riot? We were shovelled up like muck. Then set the night on fire. Wombles bleed truncheons and shields. You know I cherish you my love." -The Libertines

This man knows what he is doing – paying such great respect to the rich traditions at Burberry (which include the trenches of World War I) and making clothes for men (and women) that are still fresh, interesting and highly covetable.

"Your friends all pass for life is just a market. But you have to finish everything you started. So I live my life tearing down the runway. Sure to get the hang of hanging in there someday. Don't let go the coat." -The Who

"Why don't you walk away? The sun won't swallow the sky. Why don't you walk away? Statues will not cry." -Franz Ferdinand

These are not costumes for parties and the fashion set. These are perfect, tailored elements for the film set of everyday life.

"I'm sleeping in a battle ship. I'm sleeping in a submarine. I'm sleeping in a fighter plane. I'm sleeping going down the drain." -Arcade Fire

They are uniforms for the fight against the plain, the mundane and the bland, without being grand.

"But the freak, and his type, all for nothing. He misses a step and cuts his hand, but showing nothing, he swoops like a song. She cries: Where have all Papa's heroes gone?" -David Bowie

"And before you abuse, criticize and accuse, walk a mile in my shoes." -Bryan Ferry

At attention we stand, Mr. Bailey. At attention, we stand.

"There's a guy in my block, he lives for rock. He plays records day and night. And when he feels down, he puts some rock 'n' roll on. And it makes him feel alright. And when he feels the world is closing in, he turns his stereo way up high." -The Kinks

All images of Burberry Menswear FW10/11 courtesy of Fashionising.

Image captions are a gift to Mr. Bailey, a fellow muso. Each is attributed to the band that wrote the lyrics. If you don’t know these words or bands, get thee to Google.