Day One – India Wills its Way Forward

In a country known for duality, it is only fitting that there are two main fashion weeks in India.

The Mumbai mavens have Lakme Fashion Week, which occurred in March, showing Summer/Resort 2011 collections. (Read my Lakme 2011 posts thus far.) Meanwhile, Delhi divas are donning their designer duds for Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, which started today and runs until April 10th, showcasing Autumn/Winter 2011 collections.

Judging by the first round of shows today, I can see a distinct energy coming from these clothes.

The New Frida? at Rehane AW11.

The classic kurta and vest combo gets an upgrade at Urvashi Kaur AW11.

The history of craft is woven into the fabric of India, but things are starting to get haute. Pankaj and Nidhi AW11.

There is a definite ode to the past – and respect for craft and heritage. What is more evident, however, is the search for a new presence, of a revised notion of what Indian fashion is.

Time to change your perception of Indian fashion - Kallol Dutta - one of my favourites.

Glen plaid returns at Rishta by Arjun, with a new spin on the 'tail' coat. Fashion forward (although it would be more dramatic over a black trouser).

This checkered dress checks off many trends for next season, and yet still manages to look original. Pankaj and Nidhi.

Before you ask, this is already on my list for Fall. Neeru Kumar, you may be my next soul sister.

Now, the new India is certainly not news – but there are new designers each season – and with them, a crop of fresh ideas and dreams. The event will feature over 75 runway presentations, with 141 designers taking part in the week’s activities.

While some may not yet have the clarity of vision as an Anamika Khanna or the brand heft of a Tarun Tahiliani or the cult following of a JJ Valaya or Rohit Bal, there is a freshness of thought – and mostly – a determination of spirit that I am starting to see in these collections.

Interesting play on the salwaar, harem pant and capri at Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta.

Draped blouse and patched salwaar pants at Monapali AW11.

Tuned in at Urvashi Kaur AW11.

There is an emergence of a voice here, and another voice there and yet another in the distance.

And sure enough, these individual voices are starting to sound like a cohesive crowd.

You mauve me: Geisha Designs by Paras and Shalini.

Neeru Kumar - at any length.

Day One ended with the master, Tarun Tahiliani, who showed us his classics including saris. Look at the sheer layer of fabric underneath the bustline.

Tahiliani took us to China, adding his embellished twist to trusted tailoring.

Fashion in India: marching to the beat of different drum. Varun Bahl's black and white runway army for AW11.

All images courtesy of WLIFW.

Rubbing Shoulders

We know that the last few seasons in fashion have been all about the Big Shoulder, but have the proportions gotten ridiculous now?

Note the picture frame shoulders at Prashant Verma’s Ego collection at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week AW10.

Guess his point is that you need big a** shoulders to prop up a large ego?

Too much for moi. Don’t want to knock over random objects every time I turn around…

Head and shoulders above the rest at Prashant Verma AW10.

Photo courtesy of WIFW.

Pacified Plumes and Plain Perfection

The pompous plumes were later pacified at Gaurav and Ritika…

Birds of a different feather, at Gaurav and Ritika AW10.

The proportions and layering of greys and black in the last look on the right is dreamlike. I want to wear this for Spring and float into a brand new version of me.

The second look echoes Belgian design and is right on point in black and white.

But this next look captures the essence of the rich textural history within India and the simplicity of the new design regime.

The art of simple dressing at Gaurav & Ritika AW10.

Top photo courtesy of The Hindu. Bottom photo courtesy of WIFW.

Feathered Friend or Foe?

Big Bird, is that you?

A feathered frock that may not work on most - at Gaurav and Ritika AW10.

Photo courtesy of WIFW.

Nouveau India

The Motherland has lost her modesty.

Welcome to the New India, my dears.

She’s no longer hidden from view.

Printed lace, a pretty face, a dreamy shoe and a bit of frou at Tarun Tahiliani.

Tarun Tahliani dress for AW10 at Wills India Fashion Week.

Photo courtesy of WIFW.

Wills India Fashion Week Begins – in IST

The irony of India Fashion Week starting a day late (in Indian Standard Time) is not lost on this desi girl. Someone forgot to get a fire permit so all shows on the first day were cancelled.

It’s the second fashion week in India this month with Lakme Fashion Week happening in Mumbai earlier in March. This one, in New Delhi, is the bigger one of the two and now there are others popping up in places like Bangalore and beyond.

The perception of India in the west of course, is of the immense poverty – but this is a country of contrasts.

One of those stark contrasts has always been the division of class, but those lines are slowly blurring and blending – especially in terms of the middle class.

That middle class now have better jobs and better paychecks and along with those things, comes the want of material things.

The younger generation of Indians are also obsessed with the West.  Most wealthy sons and daughters are educated abroad and return to the Motherland to make money – and spend it.

Luxury brands like Gucci, Hermes and Burberry have not only set up shop, they are expanding their initial investments in India. The Mittals, one of the foremost empire builders in the country, have bought Escada – the first of many fashion empires, I am sure.

The fashion business is booming. Magazines like Vogue, Elle and Harper’s Bazaar have very successful Indian publications at a time when western magazines are struggling to stay afloat.

Part and parcel with this adoration of fashion is the amount of fashion talent coming out of India. While there were only a handful of known designers about 10 years ago, there seem to be dozens of new ones each season. Fashion may now even be perceived as a respectable career in the eyes of Indian parents(!).

India has always been fashion crazed – she’s just craving a different kind of fashion now – and more of it.

India is a young woman, burgeoning, and finding herself. And she wants to look beautiful.

In a country this hot, maybe a fire permit is a good idea after all.

Fanning the flames of east and west at Ashima-Leena AW10.

Keeping the home fires burning - classic salwars get printed at Ashima-Leena AW10.

Photos courtesy of WIFW.

Galavanting 2

It’s party frock season. Thought you might need some inspiration for your New Year’s Eve attire tomorrow night. We can’t all afford these gorge gowns but they will give you some ideas about shapes, proportions and colour.

Let’s continue galavanting, shall we?

Adding some frou always works – whether it’s in the form of bows, feathers or a little lace.

Alexis Mabille Haute Couture FW09

You could take a simpler, white, strapless or sleeveless dress, add a feather boa and maybe a wide, black ribbon tied around your arm or wrist in a bow, borrowing from Monsieur Mabille?

And those T-strap sandals? I have a great pair from Nine West so you can get the look without spending a fortune.

The Chanel Haute Couture collection for FW09 was not up to its usual standards, but I liked the intricacy of these lace dresses. You can easily find elements like this in vintage pieces. I was in Kensington Market in Toronto just yesterday and saw lots of black lace and chiffon. I don’t do strapless, so I’d throw a crisp, white shirt under this one…

Chanel Haute Couture FW09

…or you could just take a regular LBD that’s in your closet and add a lace bag or gloves – easily found in vintage shops – wherever you live.

Chanel Haute Couture FW09

I love the petal effect on this David Dixon dress – plus, it won’t kill your budget like Chanel HC!

David Dixon gown, SS10. Photo by Angela Y. Martin

The next two examples are all about shape.

Have curves. Will travel.

I adore the idea of a jacket and long skirt and lu-uv this silhouette. (Sorry, what’s that? I couldn’t hear you from inside your closet as you look for the similar items you may already have!) I’ve been following David Dixon’s work since the mid-90s and this is a man who knows his clients (and us women!) very well.

David Dixon FW09. Photo by Angela Y. Martin

This dress by Tarun Tahiliani needs its own soundtrack. Of course, you will want the actual dress, but in a pinch, you can take that slinky top you already have, put on the widest and flingiest pair of black pants OR the curviest skirt you own, throw in a statement necklace and voila! You will ring in the New Year with drama!

Tarun Tahiliani FW09 dress. Photo by Vinod Kumar.

If shaped and fitted isn’t your thing, opt for a flowy vibe. This ’70s inspired paisley gown from Etro is one of my all-time favourites. I know fashion fate will lead me to it one of these days…

One from my fashion archives from a few years ago - Etro's paisley gown.

The colours from Bottega Veneta and Ranna Gill provide nice options if black is blasé where you are concerned.

Bottega Veneta gown from the Resort 2010 collection.

Ranna Gill's colour blocked column from SS09.

This David Dixon frock combines leather and tie-died silk – adding structure and movement all in one shot.

David Dixon FW10. Photo by Angela Y. Martin

And now you social butterflies can have it all – a shorter shift with a longer, chiffon overlay.

Gaurav Gupta FW09 - the long and the short of evening dressing.

For me, the colour of choice would be a gorgeous green. Here are a couple of other favourites from my archives…first, a McQueen fit for a modern goddess…

Alexander McQueen's green Grecian goddess from FW07.

…and this divine creation for Gucci by Mr. Ford – why saunter when you can slink your way into 2010?

Gucci's glamazon from FW04

No matter how you ring in the New Year, do it with style, grace and a dash of inspiration…

Sources: Mabille photo from Getty Images, Bottega, Chanel, Gucci, McQueen photos from Style.com. David Dixon photos courtesy of AYM Photography. Gill photo courtesy of Ranna Gill. Tahiliani and Gupta photos courtesy of WLIFW. Etro image courtesy of Neiman Marcus.

GQuon nahi?

Why not, indeed?

Why not put the most handsome man in India on the cover of the desi version of GQ?

Arjun Rampal on the cover of GQ India, August 2009

If Arjun Rampal looks natural in front of the camera, it’s because he modelled before hitting the bari screen of Bollywood. He was discovered in a discotheque (nightclub on this side of the world) by Indian fashion designer, Rohit Bal. It wasn’t until 2001 that he appeared in his first film.

He now not only acts, models every once in a while, runs a restaurant in Delhi and a production company with his Miss India/supermodel wife in this life, Mehr Jesia.

With all due respect, Mrs. Rampal, he’s mine in the next life.

[GQ is only one of a flurry of western publications to hit India recently. Read about other Mags of the Motherland.]

Images courtesy of GQ India.

Mags of the Motherland

The magazine industry is hurting in North America, with daily news of layoffs and mag closures.

But on the other side of the Atlantic, it’s a rags to riches story.

Mags are big business in the Motherland.

India is no longer the less fashionable, sedate, math whiz, little sister.

She is the glamour goddess, letting it all hang out, in full and glossy colour.

See for yourself.

Bolly Beauty Priyanka Chopra on the cover of Harper's Bazaar India, Jul/Aug 2009

Stylista Sonam Kapoor strutting for Cosmopolitan India Oct 09

One of my fave Vogue India covers - Tabu, Jan 09

Great shot of Hrithik Roshan, GQ India, Sept 09

GQ India's Oct 09 inaugural Men of the Year issue

Divine Dia Mirza for Marie Claire India

Bipasha Basu working it for Harper's Bazaar India, Sept 09

Who knew even Grazia was in India?! Kareena K rocking the strong shoulder for the Oct 09 issue

One of the best shots of Lakshmi Menon I've seen - for Vogue India

The Bachchan offspring - Abhishek and Shweta B wearing LV for L'Officiel India

The Love Song of JJ Valaya’s Red Frock

While Mr. Eliot may not have been musing about a specific designer, he certainly did admire a sartorial detail or two in his poems.

Fitting then, to dedicate a few of his infamous words to the poetry that is JJ Valaya’s layered, flared tunic.

Valaya Base FW09 gown/tunic - poetry worthy

Valaya image source.

Buy the book that contains one of the best poems of all time.

Déjà Vu: Artist vs. Artist

19th century Indian painter Raja Ravi Varma, was known for his depictions of beautiful, voluptuous women. His painting of Lady with Swarbat, shows a woman in a gauzy, gold-bordered sari.

Lady with Swarbat by Raja Ravi Varma

Anamika Khanna was surely digging through the art archives for inspiration for her Fall Winter 09 collection.

Her version of the woman in white and gold, shows Khanna’s trademark asymmetrical lines and confident, modern woman. I love how my soul sister combines the traditions of the 18th and 19th centuries and fuses them with the future we’d like to wear now.

Instead of a churridaar, she showed leggings, with sparkling sequins and a front slit. And I love the trailing, knotted and embroidered second layer of fabric coming out from underneath the tunic, which also has knotted ends.

It combines the soft woman from Varma’s painting with the toughness a woman needs in 2009.

Artist complements artist.

Anamika Khanna FW09

See more from Anamika Khanna’s FW09 collection.

Khanna photo from rediff.com. Raja Ravi Varma photo source.

Galavanting

Is there a recession? Someone tell the fashion jetset.

There was no shortage of glam, gorj, gala-worthy gowns at a multitude of recent fashion weeks.

So hot, it's cool at Ralph Rucci SS 2010

This fiery hot neck piece adds a layer of drama to an otherwise cool and breezy gown. Perfect for a night of flamenco, no?

Cool it down with this leathery slick satin dress by Project Runway Canada alum, Evan Biddell. Love the neck adorment here, aussi.

Cool Canadian Evan Bidell's leather-like satin number. Photo by Angela Y. Martin

Bubblegum pink at Bottega Veneta Resort 2010

The evening ease continues at Bottega Veneta Resort 2010 and Alexis Mabille FW09. Float or glitter away – the choice is yours.

Getting the cold shoulder at Mabille FW09

But a woman is a complex creature, full of intricacies and layered details. Desi girl, Ranna Gill, created a perfect piece for her Spring Summer 09 collection. It’s colour blocked and beaded, without looking overdone.

Just a Ranna Gill type of girl.

Fitzgerald's Daisy goes Rock and Roll. Chanel Resort 2010

Necks get covered again at Chanel Resort, 2010. Karl showed a ’20s inspired collection and in this case, it looks like the modern, Rock and Roll version of Fitzgerald’s Daisy B.

Modern girl, Stella McCartney made lacy – not racy – separates sing.

Elegance personified at Stella Resort 2010

Speaking of elegance, there is nothing like rich colours, embroidery and textures to make a woman look regal. Sabyasachi Mukherjee likely dressed maharanis in another life. That sari border is from another era, entirely – where beauty reigned.

This is Indian couture, my dears. It may not be classified as such since les petites mains didn’t make it, but there were likely many chotay, chotay hath that touched just this one ensemble.

Maharani Mode at Sabyasachi FW09

Feel like going out all of a sudden? I know I do.

Sources: Rucci, Bottega, Chanel, Stella photos from Style.com. Evan Biddell photo courtesy of AYM Photography. Mabille photo courtesy of Alexis Mabille. Gill photo courtesy of Ranna Gill. Sabyasachi photo source.

Desi Fashion’s Golden Girl

Anamika Khanna is my soul sister. Being a Khanna is like being a Malhotra – we are the Italian equivalent of pisanes.

Then there’s the kindred spirit thing.

Anamika creates beautiful, edgy, asymmetrical pieces, mixing styles from the west with the decorative eastern arts.

And me, well, I like to wear all of those things – usually together.

These pieces from her Spring Summer 09 collection combined all of those elements and more.

Anamika Khanna's Gladiator Girl

Wrapped in feminity

Dress meets anarkali suit

The  dress she did for Sonam Kapoor is still on my mind, too. Anamika is one of the reasons India is enjoying its current Golden Age of fashion.

Anamika ji, you and I need to be friends.

See more Anamika in Bright Lights of Indian Fashion 2 and Déjà Vu: Artist vs. Artist.

Photo source.

Enlighten Me Satya Paul

I spent most of this weekend in the dark – power outage due to the elements. After seeing grey for two days, I needed some intensity, just not in the weather this time. I needed englightenment.

No one else to turn to, but dear Satya Paul.

Wrapped in Mother Earth

This saree blends nature’s four elements in a fury of colour.

A serial modernist, Puneet Nanda pairs a dramatic saree with a streamlined silk jacket. Flourish at no extra charge.

Mataji? Not Me!

Taking it up a notch (or three), Nanda offers up sequins on print, creating a digitized, pixelated effect.

Digitized Diva

The digits get draped in this version. Versace could take lessons in colour from Puneet and his father, Satya Paul himself.

You're into colour, I gather?

There is no coyness here. These clothes say one thing: LIVE. And while you are at it, Do It In Colour!

Satya Paul couldn’t have said it better himself, wise sage that he is. Will do. I’m no longer in the dark…

All images from Satya Paul Fall Winter 2009 collection. Top two images courtesy of Yahoo! India. Bottom two images courtesy of rediff.com.

Save Yourself

This world can be a crazy place. Sometimes, life – and people – can drain you.

If I’ve learned anything in this cosmic consciousness, it is that you are your own superhero!

Better dress for it…

Pankaj and Nidhi Ahuja's Caped Crusader AW09

Modern Marvel at Gaurav Gupta AW09

Cue’s Slick Super-woman by Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna AW09

   

Cue image source.  Source  – remaining images.