Keeping with the gothentic theme this week, the Alexander McQueen brand released a new collection of skull scarves. Not only are the scarves a refined version of the bones that the House was built on (it is a McQueen piece that is generally more accessible and has sold consistently well since it was introduced), but the campaign that accompanies the new collection is equally beautiful.
It has a haunting quality, which at McQueen has never scared me away. I always find it serene. Reminds me of Kate’s hologram moment.
If you ever doubted the impact of Alexander McQueen’s SS10 Plato’s Atlantis collection, you can sea it for yourself in the works of these designers.
His influence, like a body of water, ran down stream at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, surfacing over the last couple of days.
Not that they were the first this season to show sea-inspired collections (or, for that matter, to be inspired by McQueen), but in the works of Amit Aggarwal, Pankaj and Nidhi Ahuja and Joyjit Talukdar, I could immediately see what the tentacles of Lee’s legacy had touched.
Visual vortex at Morphe by Amit Aggarwal, SS12.
It's been an ocean of digitized prints ever since Plato's Atlantis - seen here at Pankaj and Nidhi's SS12 show.
A subtler take on the depths of the ocean at Ela by Joyjit Talukdar
It goes to show you that we may be worlds apart, but oceans unite us.
Visual vagabond – we have seen new vistas through your vast imagination.
Shimmering shaman – you have guided us in the darkest, unadorned hours.
Priestess of precision – you balance on tip-toe with the weight of the worn world on your shoulders.
Maestro of modern mode – we enjoy your symphonic ways.
Enigmatic Eve – we catch a fleeting, fluttering glimpse of you, at times.
Couture curator, creator - we are drawn into your universe.
Daphne Guinness, an exhibit featuring approximately one hundred garments and accessories from the private collection of one of the world’s most creative wearers and makers of clothes, opens at The Museum at FIT tomorrow.
Running until January 7th, 2012, the exhibit will also display images, videos and films of Ms. Guinness. Like the clothes themselves, some of these have been created by her as well.
Along with her own designs, items from Chanel, Valentino, Alaia, Givenchy, Lacroix, Dior, Tom Ford, Gareth Pugh - and over two dozen of her dear friend, Alexander McQueen’s pieces, that have never before been on display – will be on view.
Her collaboration with metalsmith and jeweler extraordinaire, Shaun Leane, as well as hats by Philip Treacy and alas – the shoes we are all in awe of – will surely be draws for both the curious and the serious, among us.
The exhibition is co-curated by Daphne Guinness and The Museum at FIT’s director and chief curator, Valerie Steele. Here is a preview of some of the items that will be on display.
Top marks to FIT for this initiative! Photo of Ms. Guinness by René Habermacher.
A jacket and shirt ensemble designed by Daphne, is paired with punk shop tights. Perfect.
She has an eye for Alaia eyelets.
I can see her in this frothy Chanel couture jacket - with a raised eyebrow to match. Natch.
A shimmering Chanel - flaptastic.
She has an equal affection for tailoring and frou. A fine balance.
No couture collection could be complete without Monsieur Lacroix!
The weight of that worn world will be carried well on Balmain-ed shoulders.
A demure shift from Chanel. Subtle elegance.
Room with a Pugh.
One of many McQueens in the show.
The McQueen dreams shoe. I dreamt of it. Did you?
Together, Lee and Daphne stood so tall. Sadly, she wore these to his memorial.
McQueen's weapons of mass adoration.
Daphne Guinness with Phillip Treacy at The White Fairy Tale Love Ball in a McQueen Gown. Photo: PacificCoastNews.com.
Red or dead. Heightened consciousness, to be sure.
Wearing The Glove by Shaun Leane in a photo by Nick Knight - with whom she collaborated for this exhibition.
Of course, the ex will have an accompanying book. Cover photo by Kevin Davies.
Ms. G getting into her work - preparing for the show, a few weeks ago.
Could be - Somerset House is one of the venues being tossed about for an encore showing of Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty.
That’s right, the fashion exhibit that broke records (and many hearts) at The Met, will be going home to London – a story broken by Melanie Rickey, Editor-At-Large at Grazia mag – on her blog.
Gems from one of my favourite McQueen collections, FW09, masterfully displayed at the Met.
Ms. Rickey couldn’t detail her off-the-record convo with the House of McQueen, but offered up this official statement from them:
“Alexander McQueen appreciates the huge amount of interest the public has shown
towards the Savage Beauty exhibition. We have been in discussion with a number
of major venues in London for some time now however nothing has been finalised.
Please be assured that an official announcement will be made the moment we
confirm our plans for London.”
I didn’t get to New York for the exhibit, but there are things I just know in my heart when it comes to McQueen.
I knew I’d see Lee in London.
Here’s a virtual tour with The Met’s Andrew Bolton to tide you over until 2013 – when the exhibit is planned, to coincide with the 20th anniversary of the launch of the Alexander McQueen label.
The Fall campaigns are hitting my consciousness, despite the sultry August heat.
It’s at this time of year – when the Fall looks we saw months ago actually begin to relate to our own fashion reality. You start to think about how that shade of green would look with your charcoal pants from last season, how the width of the new pants (which are really the old pants you loved) will work with your vintage cashmere cropped sweater…
As you sit amongst air conditioning and feed yourself frozen treats (my current obsession is freezing everything in sight), you can imagine wearing cozy things. You can imagine the surreality of Fall fashion – that far-fetched season only a chilled breeze or two away, really.
Never a brand to shy from the surreal, the FW11 campaign from Alexander McQueen, shot by David Sims plays on Magritte’s clouds, darkens them ever so and then adds the light of Sarah Burton’s designs for the season to illuminate just whom we might want to be in a few weeks time.
Raquel Zimmermann shouldered the tough conditions for the shoot. Note the rock solid heels.
A ray of sun amongst the rainbow clouds.
Little goth riding hood.
Sea of clouds. See clearly.
Looking in. From within.
I told you, all bets were off come August. I’ve started to fall…
Quietly last Fall, Alexander McQueen, the brand, introduced a line of rugs and home accessories, in collaboration with The Rug Company.
No stranger to designer collaborations, the UK-based home decor mecca has worked with Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood and dozens of artists and designers over the years. They know how to do it right.
This is not fast fashion for your foyer, my dears. This is divine dressing for the den – and beyond.
Being a bit of a McQueen dreamer, I fell head over hummingbirds for these designs.
The collaboration took three years and the results echo the mastery of McQueen and the level of luxe detail The Rug Company is known for. The carpet couturiers even explored new weaving techniques and spun sumptuous yarns to accommodate the genius of McQueen.
The military brocade rug, for example, incorporates golden silk yarn, raised from the wool background – all of which is carved by hand. Look carefully and you can see that the serpent is wrapped in oak leaves and originates from a skull in the centre of the design and is surrounded by wreaths and ferns. The devil – and the divine – is in the details, my dears.
Alexander McQueen military brocade rug: hand-knotted Tibetan wool and raised silk.
It raises your consciousness of what a rug can be, no? The design came from a coat from the FW01 collection.
The coat that inspired the rug, from Fall Winter 2001. Heart-wrenchingly beautiful.
Going back ten years in time to find these images, I am reminded again of how ahead of his time the man truly was. These would still be stand-out pieces today. His clothes aremuseum-worthy, aren’t they?
A gold skull "stole" from the FW01 collection.
The “stole” above, looks like another piece of wearable art from McQueen mate Shaun Leane.
Lee was consistent in his depictions and inspirations. The military brocade design appeared ten years later, in what would be his final collection.
The Intarsia wool and silk blend dress from FW10.
Compare them again.
The dress above, is a more wearable interpretation of this glorious caped coat.
The gilded, caped coat - such darkness and light in one garment.
Echoes of the Asian theme still exist, but are intricately woven with western motifs.
McQueen often worked in stark contrasts – light and dark; east and west; modernity and tradition; real and surreal.
The rug in the window of the Milan boutique.
How it could look in your world...
Feathers were another consistent theme for McQueen. They appeared in many forms during his shows over the years – perhaps birds were the inspiration for his frequent flights of fancy.
The hand-knotted Turkish cashmere Feathers rug.
The cashmere yarns used in the rugs were woven to reflect the softness and lightness of the feathers they depict.
The softness and lightness of a feather dress, from the Alexander McQueen SS08 show.
Is it me, or can you feel the softness of that cashmere through these images?
They take you to another world. You are transported.
Getting carried away during Voss, SS01.
Ferocious feathers from FW09.
A bodice for a goddess: from FW09.
McQueen was inspired by birds of prey and lovebirds, alike. I will never forget his hummingbirds, though.
Alexander McQueen for The Rug Company hummingbird cushion, wool and silk aubusson with metallic thread.
The history of the term, aubusson dates back to workshops that originated in 1743 in the villages of Aubusson and Felletin, France. These workshops were established to weave pile carpets for nobility and royal residences. The pile-less tapestry technique previously in use in this district was adapted for so many of the carpets, that the word Aubusson has become synonymous with a flat-woven French tapestry or carpet.
I saw many of these on a visit to the South of France more than a decade ago. I’ll never forget that artisan, nor his stone-walled cave workshop.
Beauty, captured.
The Edgar Allan Poe-try of a dress: FW09 McQueen.
"Reflections of - the way life used to be. Reflection of - the love you took from me."
Alexander McQueen suit from The Birds SS95 - one of his earliest runway shows.
But like I said, it’s the hummingbirds that have me singing a consistent tune.
While the bulk of the collection was launched last October, designs like this one, have only become available recently.
Alexander McQueen hummingbird rug for The Rug Company: hand-knotted cashmere and silk.
I will not lie – I want this rug lying on my floor – and I want to wear this dress lying on top of that rug – if only for the freedom of living in a McQueen dream…
One of my fave McQueen pieces of all time - the hummingbird dress.
McQueen’s designs were always so cerebral – so it was fitting (and it fits so well!) that the man almost single-handedly had the world adorned in skulls.
The rug of skulls: hand-knotted Tibetan wool and silk.
The infamous McQueen skull scarf, copied the world over.
"Rest your head. Don't worry too much."
Golden skull pillow.
Wool aubusson, aussi.
The skulls made a memorable appearance on Ms. Moss.
Kate Moss, being, well, Kate Moss during the SS04 show.
Kate Moss in the May 2011 issue of Harper's Bazaar wearing the skull gown.
In that issue, Moss remembers her friend Lee, along with close compatriots Annabelle Neilson and Ms. Guinness. How any of us will ever forget him, I cannot know.
One way to never forget, is to surround yourself in McQueen’s mastery, any way you can.
The rugs range from $4K to a soaring (think hummingbirds) $72K CAD, while the cushions are between $750 – $1K CAD. All are available at Avenue Road, the exclusive distributor for The Rug Company in Canada.
Why limit McQueen’s genius to your closet – when your condo, too can be dressed in couture?
One day that hummingbird rug will reside in my domain. It may not be domani but one day…
Images: All fashion show images courtesy of Style.com except for Intarsia dress which is from Netaporter.com; Harper’s Bazaar image courtesy of TFS; all rug and pillow images courtesy of Avenue Road and Alexander McQueen.
Last night’s Met Gala, celebrating the opening of Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty was an occasion to rejoice and reflect on the designer’s contributions to the visual world. In a much-lauded exhibit curated by Andrew Bolton (some say his best project to date), and a night of fashion’s best invited to attend, I expected my jaw to drop over and over again.
I expected to revel in the creative splendour of other-worldly gowns, adorned with gothentic accessories. I expected my view to be altered. I expected to celebrate McQueen from a distance, through these lucky souls.
In a word, I was disheartened.
How could so few of those privileged enough to attend, wear the designer to whom they were paying tribute?
How could they not wrap themselves in endless McQueen dreams?
I didn’t see most of the dresses I expected to see – flipping furiously through my mind. It was, for the most part, a futile search.
Where were the wind-blown capes? Where was the FW08 feather dress? Where were the kimono sleeves? Where was the armour-candy?
At the very least, where was Plato’s Atlantis?
It was beyond my comprehension.
However, there were exceptions – there were a few McQueens of the night.
Saving Grace: Wendy Murdoch in a PF08 gown. Photo: Vogue.com.
She should have worn the hat and gloves. Photo: Vogue.com.
Tabitha Simmons' McQueen dream jacket - one of the few to showcase his tailoring that evening. Photo: Vogue.com.
The other example of tailoring - and more zardozi embroidery. Could have done without the egg. Photo: Racked NY.
Now here is a woman one doesn't expect to see in McQueen, but it fits her like one. Photo: StyleBistro.
Every (Mc)Queen deserves a train... Photo: Vogue.com.
Gisele and Naomi - also in McQueen - on the red carpet. Photo: @worldmcqueen.
Karen Elson in Alexander McQueen SS04. Photo: @worldmcqueen.
Dressed up and down at the same time. Photo: Vogue.com.
Salma, that whole PPR thing is agreeing with you. Photo: JustJared.com.
SJP goes Hitchcock. Photo: JustJared.com.
Loved the subtlety of the gown mixed with the sparkle. Photo: JustJared.com.
Miranda Brooks keeps it simple. Photo: Vogue.com.
Many of those in McQueen chose Sarah Burton’s designs for the label, including, of course, the designer herself.
This was one of my favourite looks of the night. Leelee Sobieski in Sarah Burton for McQueen. Photo: JustJared.com.
That leaf belt has me in its grip. Photo: JustJared.com.
Naomi Campbell in a custom piece by Sarah Burton. Photo: @metmuseum.
Florence Welch performs, wearing SB for McQueen SS11. She wore YSL on the red carpet with her escort for the evening, Stefano Pilati. Photo: Vogue.com.
Coco Rocha in Alexander McQueen FW11. Photo: Vogue.com.
Raquel Zimmermann, also in Alexander McQueen FW11. The models are moving forward. Photo: Vogue.com.
Of course, the reigning McQueens for me were already chosen – Hamish and Daphne.
Hamish Bowles, he in old McQueen. Daphne Guinness, she in new McQueen. Not sure who Nick Knight is wearing. Photo: Citizenchic.
Lee Hilfiger holds on to her McQueen Union Jack skull clutch - as she should. Photo: Vogue.com.
I am holding on to the fact that the exhibit will take my breath away.
Karen Elson in the infamous antler headdress and gown from the Widows of Culloden collection, Fall 2006.
Stella Tennant in a dress from the Spring 2001 Voss collection.
Karlie Kloss donning a wooden dress from Number 13, Spring 1999.
Caroline Trentini in full bloom in a piece of art from the Sarabande collection, Spring 2007.
Raquel Zimmermann horses around in a prosthetic dress from It's Only a Game, Spring 2005.
Coco Rocha - you are one lucky girl - for wearing the piece I dream of putting on. The Kimono coat and flower box hat from Voss, Spring 2001.
As an aside, these museum pieces are being worn by actual bodies only because they are not part of the permanent collection of the Costume Institute at the Met – the guidelines of which dictate that an article of clothing cannot be worn after acquisition. Many of the pieces for the show have come from the Alexander McQueen company archives.
Constance Jablonski photographed by Alexi Lubomirski for Vogue Germany.
Alexi Lubomirski’s photographs in the full editorial actually feature Constance Jablonski in designs by a slew of designers in rich, glorious colour – a requirement this Spring.
While Batman preferred the cover of darkness and all things noir, this is not the time for it.
It’s Spring, my dears. Whether you measure it by groundhog predictions, or calendar dates or Supermoons, the ushering of a new season is upon us.
For me, there is only one start to this season of all things new – Holi, which is celebrated with vigor, vibrancy and a joie de vivre by the people of India, a place I lovingly call the Motherland.
I remember Holi celebrations of my childhood in (old New) Delhi – wearing old whites and then spraying family and neighbours with powdered colours and colour-filled water balloons. It truly was – and is - a celebration of joy, of colour, of the welcoming of Spring and all its glory into your world.
So, do that today. Surround yourself with colour.
1. Sunburst: Christopher Kane's stamped florals for SS11.
2. Issey Miyake's SS11 smock dress.
3. Turn things around this Spring - Atsu Summer Resort 2011 dress.
4. Haider Ackermann sTeals my heart each season.
5. Poetic licence - Haider SS11 gown.
6. Peel me a grape. Ports 1961 SS11 gown.
7. Fade in: this Dries jacket for SS11 lets you slowly ease into colour.
8. You'll get lots of compliments wearing these complementing florals by Dries.
9. Like something out of the MoMA - Raf Simons for Jil Sander SS11.
10. Little Shilpa, an accessories designer from India, was all about blooms for Summer Resort 2011.
11. Any damsel in this dress would emerge golden. Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen SS11.
12. 3-D florals at Vera Wang SS11.
13. Sultry spring in the tropics, according to Marc Jacobs for SS11.
14. Floral armbands at Mary Katrantzou SS11.
15. The master of prints and pattern, Sabyasachi X 3 for Summer Resort 2011.
16. Stella was all about the juicy details for SS11.
17. Butterfly Babe at Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton for SS11.
18. Subtle hues at Dries SS11.
19. Bang on bangles at Manish Arora SS11 - a bolder take on an arm full of clinking, thin, glass bangles in India?
20: Manish Arora has never been shy with his use of pigments. SS11 printed coat and technicolor PVC leggings.
21. The printed palette of Erdem, SS11.
22. A shred of decency at Vivienne Westwood Red Label SS11.
23. Don't turn your back on the possibilities. Vera Wang SS11.
24. There is hope and redemption in the coming months. Vera Wang SS11.
25. A wild and bold runway at Burberry SS11. Your own runway awaits.
26. Soft, billowy stripes at Rimi Nayak Summer Resort 2011.
27. Loden and behold - Akris SS11 buttery leather jacket.
28. Creative colour blocking at Jil Sander SS11.
29. A petite floral lace frock at Erdem SS11.
30. This Oscar de la Renta number would be great for a stroll along distant shores.
31. I might also need this to celebrate Canada Day this year. Vera Wang SS11.
32. Grecian goddess of the coral sea, according to Shantanu and Nikhil, Summer Resort 2011.
33. Laxmi Menon in ODLR SS11.
34. Wearing colour - and life, really - is all about balancing the details. ODLR SS11.
35. You just have to be smart about both, and face each with absolute confidence. Costume National SS11.
With all of the darkness we have been enveloped by lately and the heaviness that hangs over us, take the time today to celebrate all that is good, all that is joyous in your own life.
That collective energy, those positive thoughts are immense in their strength.
They can move more than you think they can.
The sky is powerful right now and the planets are listening.
Shout it to the top!
Images 1, 7, 8, 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 23, 24, 29-31, 33, 34 – Vogue.com. Images 2, 4, 5, 6, 9, 19, 20, 22, 27, 28, 35 – Elle.com. Images 3, 10, 15, 26, 32 courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week. Image 11 courtesy of Alexander McQueen. Image 13 by Scott Schuman. Image 17 by Peter Stigter. Image 25 courtesy of Burberry.
