“Any place, anywhere that I go all the People seem to stop and stare they say
‘why are you dressed like it’s Halloween? You look so absurd, you look so obscene’ O, why can’t I live a life for me? Why should I take the abuse that’s served? Why can’t they see they’re just like me it’s The same, it’s the same in the whole wide world
Well I let their teeny minds think that they’re Dealing with someone who is over the brink and I dress this way just to keep them at bay Cos Halloween is everyday it’s everyday o…”
Everyday is Halloween
-Ministry
I loved these FW11 menswear pieces from Julius, a label by Japanese designer Tatsuro Horikawa.
Menswear, unwrapped at Julius FW11.
We've seen men in skirts before, but not this sheer.
Loved the ease of this jacket. If the whole look is too theatrical for you, this piece, alone can change your wardrobe for the better.
In another time, in another place.
This, for me, has traces of the past - I see Tibetan monks and shadows of ancient kurtas, here.
It takes a certain kind of man to pull off frou.
Fairytale-esque, no?
Layered to perfection. I want to wear this on a cold winter's day.
An Indian groom ready to make his rounds?
There is something about this multi-level layering that gets me every time I see it. Every. Time.
Sheen without show. Metallic-ah.
Stark white can be just as gothentic as noir from head to toe.
This may be menswear, but I’d love a few layers of it for myself.
Rajesh Pratap Singh is one of the great voices in Indian fashion today.
He showed a refined and classy collection for SS12 at WLIFW yesterday - his women were modern, chic and understated. As always with RPS, there isn’t a whole lot of fuss – you just look pulled together in his clothes – without the effort, on your part.
His show is a must-watch if you like your fashion, clean and serene.
What shook me this season, however, was his take on menswear – on the handful (or less) of men who paraded down the ramp in his designs.
It was like someone was telling you a really, really good secret – and you were just starting to see the story unfold.
Oh…you say to yourself.
You nod.
You know.
This is a study in history. This is a study in modernity. There will be an exam at the end.
Mr. Gatsby, meet Mr. Prufrock.
I shall pause here for a moment to contemplate the pristine brogues. That isn’t brown and white, my dears. It is mushroom – quite possibly, truffle. Rare, indeed.
Okay, it’s a longer pause than I thought. Can we also discuss the layered organza and linen and the cotton that I know is the softest from India?
Can we analyze the buttery shade of topaz, placed in sequence – like a musical arrangement – the vest, followed by the jacket and over the organza and the cotton and the linen? How do so many layers still manage to look so easy?
And can we pause, again, for this…
The maharaja of yesteryear is now one cool cat.
Ikat - to be specific.
I love the kurta with a shirt collar and love the idea of a western-style blazer (vs. a Nehru jacket or vest) over it.
Isn’t the sleeve length of the jacket perfection, too? It’s these details that really make my life complete – these visual nuances – they bring me joy.
The ikat print is also an interesting take on the red jacket that was on every global menswear runway this year.
It’s hard to extinguish the heat caused by a well-dressed, distinguished gentleman, ‘innit?
With all of these brands, with all of these voices, with all of these choices, are we at an impasse?
Let there always be an alternate view, a non-conformist to guide a few of us through, an auteur of the avant-garde to stand apart from the en masse class.
Merci, Monsieur Dubuc.
Grey's Anatomy: The art and science of menswear by Philippe Dubuc.
A Wordsworth poem, visualized?
In the current blur that is fashion, certain designers still stand apart.
Dubuc is never fuzzy - just fussy - on the details.
How I wish he'd done those pants pour moi - I miss his original women's line.
Robin Hood - in Sherwood Forest, perhaps?
"I hear your footsteps in the street..."
"...it won't be long before we meet."
Might be oblivious to some, but this, to me, is very Roddy Frame.
"Lost in a forest - all alone. The girl was never there. It's always the same. Again and again."
Dubuc is a master of layering - his clothes layer like thoughts, to form a page in an ongoing story.
Always true to his original vision - he manages to find a new interpretation, each season.
He waxes poetic on life's dark sides and manages to soften them, but never sugar coats them.
He remains a favourite, all these years later. I cherish the women’s pieces I do have.
Images by Martin Rondeau, courtesy of Philippe Dubuc. Fashion film shot by Jason Last. Quoted lyrics by Aztec Camera’s Oblivious and The Cure’s A Forest, respectively.
Rude boys rocked the runway at the Costume National SS12 menswear show.
There were checkered, stacked shoes, tapered, cuffed pants and buzzed and tousled hair.
Be still my Beat-ing heart.
Hit play and… “are you ready, are you ready to go?”
I knew something special was in the air, when I saw these.
Remembering a checkered past at the Costume National Menswear SS12 show.
Soul food for the ska-starved.
It is interesting that the brand showed this ska-inspired collection 20 years to the day (!) that The Specials’ Ghost Town was number one on the UK charts.
Some things are classic – but not mass classics. They exist a bit below the regular radar. Worn with a suit, these shoes might get some initial reactions as being quirky or fun – but a man doesn’t wear these to illustrate those facets of his personality.
A man wearing these has a checkered past with this era. He’s got the 7-inch single with the original artwork, to prove it.
Music and fashion crosses all borders, 'innit?
As I’ve said before when it comes to music I like, I don’t separate the music from the look of the band – they are synonymous for me. The Specials and other ska bands of their ilk, had an unstoppable style to accompany the non-stop sets of finger-snapping, head-bopping, am-I-really-jumping-up-and-down tunes.
They may have been singing about rude boys, but these were gentleman. In suits. Note the looser jackets, the skinny lapels, the layering, the proper head wear.
The details in this one photo alone, I can discuss for miles: the pocket ruffle and pant pleats on Lynval Golding; the tilt of the hat on Neville Staple; the mirrored shades on John Bradbury; the tense scowl on Terry Hall’s face contrasted by the easy jacket; Jerry Dammers’ infamous tooth-less grin and wrap-around shades; the knot on Horace Panter’s tie; the layering and pouf of hair peeking out from Roddy Byers’ fedora.
See why the boys from Coventry were and are special?
The band had such a distinct look: The Specials, circa 1980-ish.
I look at this model off the Costume catwalk and I see a Terry of today.
Love the looser, wider jacket and love the suggestion of a skinny tie in the shirt stripe at Costume.
There was always an element of taking sportswear and adding tailoring with the ska sartorialists. Look at the side cut of that jacket, just below the pocket. Look at the zippered pockets on the vest below. I also love the chunky bracelet and the “don’t mess” earrings. Very Rude Boy.
Roddy’s hair made the current cut, too.
This do will make my head turn, each and every time. Retro reflex.
The flap of the shirt flashes back to the ’80s, as do the red, black and white shoes.
Perfect for strutting in the Concrete Jungle.
However, it’s not about reliving the past exactly as it was.
The classic knit shirt gets a modern treatment.
The grey suit gets a splash of black and white.
You can keep your style, but still be up to date and relevant. The gents in the band are the best examples of that.
The Specials on their recent tour, photographed by Andy Willsher.
It’s all about borrowing elements but keeping that original personality that you brought to the clothes.
This tie, for example gives a nod to Terry’s ascot in the Message to Rudy video.
Is it wrong that I want one for myself? The tie. Not that I'd mind if the gentleman sporting it came along as well.
It’s taking things like the slouch of an original jacket and removing the sleeves in the current version. It says casual and dressed at once.
No style slouch, here. Costume National Menswear SS12.
It’s about keeping that inner style star bright and taking him (or her!) one step beyond.
The New York Times’ T magazine did a great feature on the Godfathers of Glam, wearing skinny suits. The shoot includes photos of some of my favourite music and style icons, including Misters Ferry, Davies and Gahan, as well as Nick Cave, Iggy Pop and Lou Reed among a few others.
Here’s a sneak peek (the arrows aren’t clickable here).
Bryan Ferry, wearing his own bespoke suit by his preferred Saville Row tailor, Anderson Sheppard and shirt by Sean O'Flynn.
Ray Davies in Calvin Klein. Yeah, you really got me now.
Dave Gahan in Cavalli - a designer that really works for him, no?
The NYT has a full interactive feature with all photos and accompanying audio tracks from the well-dressed, well-versed set. It’s definitely worth a look and listen, my dears.
Just one question: where is Mr. Bowie? Okay one more: doesn’t John Doe look hauntingly like Mr. Ferry in the photo they’ve used? Take a look and let me know if you agree…
Surf and turf: a popular combo platter of culinary delights from land and sea.
Well, the surf was definitely on at Jean Paul Gaultier’s FW11 menswear show – but so was the turf – and often in one outifit…a couture-esque combo platter.
Multi-tasking wardrobe at Gaultier, FW11.
Because you never know when you'll need a scuba suit!
It, of course, instantly reminded me of Hamish Bowles from the June 2010 issue of Vogue – when Hamish went to surf camp (I know).
The Surfing Sartorialist? Hamish Bowles, making fashion waves. De rigeur.
Wonder who inspired whom?
JPG images courtesy of WWD.com. Hamish Bowles by Mario Testino, courtesy of Vogue.com.
At the recent Fall Winter 2010 men’s collections in Milan, the Dsquared twins made a mess of things – a literal, bloody mess.
The collection featured interesting clothes on bloodied models.
Hmmm…was this a reference to skinheads and mods? The combat boots and military jacket might suggest that…
Ignore the blood and bruises and this looks is brillaint. Dsquared FW10.
Black and white and the pant length are all mod. Blood and gore are all wot?
This look made no sense at all.
I never want to see a man in shiny silver trousers but I’d love them for my own closet. Imagine them with a twisted white shirt and black vest from Ann D…but I digress.
And then, the light came via a hockey jersey.
Ohhhhhh – of course – the boys are Canadian. They are making reference to hockey fights.
I wonder if this is the first time we’ve seen hockey jerseys on the Milan runway. Mamma mia!
You can take the boys out of Canada, but you can't take Canada out of the boys.
Oh wait, is that a Jason mask?
Ohhhhh, it’s all about slasher films.
I wasn’t sure I got the bruised boys at all, actually.
And then, Dean and Dan Caten came out to take a bow wearing bloody surgery smocks with a goth angel in black wings.
