Hot Pursuit

I put on one of my favourite suit jackets, this morning – a charcoal, alpaca and wool blend, waist-length, fitted number with a high collar, wide belt, balloon sleeves and Victorian button-closure, by Antonio Berardi.

This couture suit by Bouchra Jarrar has the same romantic vibe that drew me to the Berardi suit (which is completed by the best fitted and flared trousers in my closet).

I am adoring this return to ladylike luxe, lately.

Lady over lazy, my dears – embrace the return of the softer suit!

This return suits me just fine - Bouchra Jarrar Fall 2011 Couture.

Image: Vogue.com.

Valli Girls

Like, oh my gawd.

Who says, like, couture is like, dead?

Giambattista Valli Fall 2011 Haute Couture - the craft lives on.

It’s toooootally nawt!

Thanks to a designer like Giambattista Valli, who debuted his first Haute Couture collection in Paris today, the craft continues on.

I will leave my musings on the history and future of Couture for another day, but for now, I  will say that it is refreshing to see young talents like Valli take on the daunting task – and succeed so beautifully.

The journey of Couture is a long and complex one, and certainly isn’t as black and white as some have dramatically declared in the recent past.

When it comes to couture, there is no such thing as simple black and white.

Is fashion art? Should it be? Is it commerce? Is it both? Is there room within the business of fashion for creations equivalent to the cost of a cozy condominium?

It’s a wild debate.

What couture should be - big, big, big.

And dra-ma - there should always be Drama, with a capital D.

For me, the questions aren’t: is it wearable; is it practical; is it art; is it this or is it that?

Couture isn’t something that my mind analyzes. Couture is all heart.

Couture is what made me fall in love with fashion from a young age – that fantastical, evocative declaration of WOW, the million yards of fabric trailing down the runway, that explosion of feathers on a shoulder, that gravity-defying sculpture atop a petite head, that sparkle of endless sequins – it allowed me to dream – and dream big.

I am not about to give up my couture dreams now.

Like, totally.

I dream in Technicolor. I dream couture dreams.

Images: Yannis Vlamos, GoRunway.com via Vogue.com.

Gilded Age

There comes a time in every woman’s life – a time for her to sparkle.

Bring it on, dear universe.

I’ll be dressed for it.

Copper tone tan - a stunner from Stephane Rolland's Spring 2011 couture collection.

Never look back - just leave a trail behind.

See other stunners from Stephane Rolland’s couture show.

Images: Elle.com.

June In

Is that the tune of June that I hear in the near distance?

Darling June, you cannot come too soon.

I feel your grasp in my heart.

Clutching on to the reality that June is around the corner.

Nothing like drama when you are out for the evening - Stephane Rolland Spring 2011 Haute Couture.

Months and months of fabric. Months and months to get here, sweet June.

If you are having a deja vu moment, you are not alone. Hussein Chalayan did wonderful gowns with grabbing hands a while back. Both versions took my breath away.

Images: Elle.com.

Beautiful Mayhem

May was beautiful in so many ways…

Stephane Rolland Spring 2011 Haute Couture - a gown fit for a May goddess.

…but it certainly left its mark.

Who says beauty is supposed to be flawless?

Mark my words – we have not been stained in vain.

Ms. May, we have worn your lessons well.

We will rise to sing, again.

Perhaps it will even be a new tune…

Images: Elle.com.

Now That’s Couture!

Dior Haute Couture made me scream those words out loud: “Now thaaaat’s coutuuuuure!”

Inspired by the wonderful, whimsical and other-worldly illustration of Rene Gruau, John Galliano put on a jaw-dropping parade of beauty.

Just a couple of teasers for now…with much more sumptuous detail to come…

Talk about striking (!) a pose. Galliano had me at the red lips!

Rene Gruau's La Toque Rouge

My favvvvvourite red. Delicious.

Images courtesy of Style.com and Artnet.

Couture with a K

And no, I  don’t mean the anti-couture label by you know who.

I mean K as in Karl and K as in Kristen.

He designed it. She wore it.

So nice to see the Ks connected via couture.

Kristen McMenamy - au neutrale in Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2011.

Image courtesy of WWD.

ReMARKable

A day in my professional marketing life means that I get a visual barrage on a regular basis. My fashion life then adds hundreds of daily images to that mix. Plus, with digital consumption being a required daily multi-vitamin, that visual vista expands even further.

One, two, 400, 792…our minds fuse each image, filing all of them away for search and retrieval (or perhaps not) later. Everything starts to blur.

Until it doesn’t.

Sometimes, amongst the creative clutter, there is a silencing of the noise.  There is a moment.

Such was the case for me when I came across the photographic work of Mark Leibowitz. His stunning record of  backstage goings-on at fashion shows, is a study in the chaos, beauty, colour, passion and frenetic pace that is the fashion industry, behind that runway.

Taken during several shows over the years (Leibowitz has shot traditional backstage images for Galliano for about 12 years), these photos have been on display, written about and lauded the world over.

I came across them for the first time yesterday and like any discovery of art into one’s consciousness, they filled me.

Galliano, Spring 2009 by Mark Leibowitz

Galliano, Spring 2009 by Mark Leibowitz

Christophe Josse Couture 2009 by Mark Leibowitz

Stéphane Rolland Couture by Mark Leibowitz

Elisa Palomino FW10 by Mark Leibowitz

Galliano FW08 by Mark Leibowitz

Galliano FW09 by Mark Leibowitz

Elie Saab Couture 09 by Mark Leibowitz

Nina Ricci FW09 by Mark Leibowitz

Elisa Palomino FW10 by Mark Leibowitz

Funny how a series of blurred images stopped the blurring in my head.

I want to wallpaper my mind with them and escape to a place of beauty.

Isn’t that what true art offers?  A momentary escape?

All images by Mark Leibowitz, courtesy of Leibowitz Pictures.

Split Personality

Alexis Mabille is a rising star who has shown some lovely pieces over the past few seasons. Through them, he has sown (or in this case, sewn) seeds of ideas within each of his collections that will one day bloom into greatness.

Whether it’s with vines of silk flowers wrapping around your calf or a trail of bows slung softly across your back, his clothes can make a woman feel feminine.

He has also shown us he can cut tailored pieces – while he may not be a master as yet, there is definitely a respect for the craft of cutting in his clothes.

This duality of soft versus edge was highly evident in the designer’s Spring 2010 Couture collection, which in some cases was literally split down the middle.

Two distinct halves of a whole new look. Alexis Mabille Couture SS10

It’s hard to refer to a suit as boring when it’s half hot pink, no? The vertical split could add a dramatic twist to drab day dressing. Perfect for us Geminis, who always have a personality to spare in our bag of tricks.

A classic colour combination - but is it couture-worthy?

Mabille loves his red and it showed up in broad strokes, along with electric blue (a continuing story this season), vivid yellow, the hot pink and not-so-boring neutrals like this taupe-y silver. I could see Carla Bruni in this little number, although with a slightly longer skirt for the First Lady of France, svp!

Mélange a toi?

Slimming silhouette at Mabille

He showed a variety of silhouettes and again, a smattering of ideas. I feel as if he’s thinking out loud, sketching with models and runway shows and his craft is still being honed. One day, his designs will be gasp-worthy. Some of them come close now…

A whisper of a sleeve speaks for itself.

On the black and white train

Style, bottled up.

Look at the bottle outline created by the shape of that dress – Mabille’s subtle about the sexiness of his clothes. There’s an allure, a curiosity he creates. I’ve always loved the  intense sensuality of covered up clothing. Pop tarts of today – take note!

Drama doesn't always have to be uncovered

This evening ensemble echoes the grace of ladies of the Victorian era, yet there is something very Audrey Hepburn and June Cleaver about it at the same time. And those crystal accents? Very 1980s Lacroix, n’est-ce pas? The masti is in the mix!

Victoriana meets June Cleaver meets Audrey Hepburn

While the clothes are beautiful and show promise, I do question whether they are worthy of being called couture. They cannot possibly touch the glory days of the old masters.

A simple bride with the designer at her side.

Mabille remembers them, too, I am sure – he ended his collection with the traditional bride – the finale in many couture shows past.

Let’s hope he can be one of the designers to keep the couture tradition alive for a long time to come.

Coles Notes: masti = fun/intoxication

Images courtesy of style.com and WWD.

Green with Envy

Was there a spring in your step today?

Well, if the warm weather and the fact that it was St. Paddy’s Day didn’t do it, these little numbers are sure to!

Gorgeous green strappy sandals from Gaultier, Haute Couture SS10.

Sigh. If only I were lucky enough to wear couture.

Photo courtesy of Style.com.

Bonjour Couture!

Bonjour couture,

J’adore, j’adore…

Immersed in event planning for Social Media Week Toronto and while I am having a ball, the lack of fashion immersion is killing me.

I wore my stilettos for Monsieur Gaultier today. I wasn’t at the show, but I was there in spirit mon amour, couture!

Here’s a fashion snack to tide us over until the next post…

JPG Haute Couture SS10

He’s captured it all – the obsession with balloon pants the past few seasons, the vest (another staple), the big shoulder – exaggerated to drastic proportions here, our love affair with black and white and just a touch of frou frou. And yet, it all seems so new.

The way the skirt edges out of the side of the pants and the button detail is pure, unaltered Gaultier.

Simple? Seams that way...only it isn't...

Images: style.com.

Galavanting 2

It’s party frock season. Thought you might need some inspiration for your New Year’s Eve attire tomorrow night. We can’t all afford these gorge gowns but they will give you some ideas about shapes, proportions and colour.

Let’s continue galavanting, shall we?

Adding some frou always works – whether it’s in the form of bows, feathers or a little lace.

Alexis Mabille Haute Couture FW09

You could take a simpler, white, strapless or sleeveless dress, add a feather boa and maybe a wide, black ribbon tied around your arm or wrist in a bow, borrowing from Monsieur Mabille?

And those T-strap sandals? I have a great pair from Nine West so you can get the look without spending a fortune.

The Chanel Haute Couture collection for FW09 was not up to its usual standards, but I liked the intricacy of these lace dresses. You can easily find elements like this in vintage pieces. I was in Kensington Market in Toronto just yesterday and saw lots of black lace and chiffon. I don’t do strapless, so I’d throw a crisp, white shirt under this one…

Chanel Haute Couture FW09

…or you could just take a regular LBD that’s in your closet and add a lace bag or gloves – easily found in vintage shops – wherever you live.

Chanel Haute Couture FW09

I love the petal effect on this David Dixon dress – plus, it won’t kill your budget like Chanel HC!

David Dixon gown, SS10. Photo by Angela Y. Martin

The next two examples are all about shape.

Have curves. Will travel.

I adore the idea of a jacket and long skirt and lu-uv this silhouette. (Sorry, what’s that? I couldn’t hear you from inside your closet as you look for the similar items you may already have!) I’ve been following David Dixon’s work since the mid-90s and this is a man who knows his clients (and us women!) very well.

David Dixon FW09. Photo by Angela Y. Martin

This dress by Tarun Tahiliani needs its own soundtrack. Of course, you will want the actual dress, but in a pinch, you can take that slinky top you already have, put on the widest and flingiest pair of black pants OR the curviest skirt you own, throw in a statement necklace and voila! You will ring in the New Year with drama!

Tarun Tahiliani FW09 dress. Photo by Vinod Kumar.

If shaped and fitted isn’t your thing, opt for a flowy vibe. This ’70s inspired paisley gown from Etro is one of my all-time favourites. I know fashion fate will lead me to it one of these days…

One from my fashion archives from a few years ago - Etro's paisley gown.

The colours from Bottega Veneta and Ranna Gill provide nice options if black is blasé where you are concerned.

Bottega Veneta gown from the Resort 2010 collection.

Ranna Gill's colour blocked column from SS09.

This David Dixon frock combines leather and tie-died silk – adding structure and movement all in one shot.

David Dixon FW10. Photo by Angela Y. Martin

And now you social butterflies can have it all – a shorter shift with a longer, chiffon overlay.

Gaurav Gupta FW09 - the long and the short of evening dressing.

For me, the colour of choice would be a gorgeous green. Here are a couple of other favourites from my archives…first, a McQueen fit for a modern goddess…

Alexander McQueen's green Grecian goddess from FW07.

…and this divine creation for Gucci by Mr. Ford – why saunter when you can slink your way into 2010?

Gucci's glamazon from FW04

No matter how you ring in the New Year, do it with style, grace and a dash of inspiration…

Sources: Mabille photo from Getty Images, Bottega, Chanel, Gucci, McQueen photos from Style.com. David Dixon photos courtesy of AYM Photography. Gill photo courtesy of Ranna Gill. Tahiliani and Gupta photos courtesy of WLIFW. Etro image courtesy of Neiman Marcus.

The news at Lacroix…is anything but pretty

The hopes that Lacroix would be saved from bankruptcy are much dimmer tonight. Earlier today, a French court approved drastic cutbacks at the House that Christian built.

Almost all staff will be let go and the Haute Couture and RTW lines will be no longer.

A few potential buyers collectively lifted the spirits of frill and frou lovers the world over, in hopes that the label would be saved from its demise. However, those buyers failed to provide financial guarantees in time for deadlines set by the courts.

The less than a dozen employees remaining will manage licenses for perfumes and the like.

Such a shame – I still remember my experience at the Lacroix Knightsbridge boutique in London, during the designer’s heyday in the mid-’90s. Those clothes were gorgeous and the details, divine.

It’s not the ending we were hoping for…

Here are a few looks from Lacroix’s last Haute Couture collection for Fall ’09.

If only the books were as black and white. A look from Christian Lacroix Haute Couture FW09.

Rich textures and finishes. Just no riches at the moment.

A flourish like no other, at Lacroix Haute Couture.

I'm afraid it's fur real this time.

Christian Lacroix taking a well-deserved bow at his Haute Couture FW09 show.

While there is no turning back now, the other side is to look forward...

With files from AFP and WWD. Images courtesy of The Times UK.

Déjà Vu: Put a Feather in Your Cap…

…and call it couture?

In one case, a yes.

In another case, good guess.

But we must confess – it’s ready to wear.

Eliciting stares.

To dream in such luxe.

In a season of flux.

Is unheard of, oh yes.

And unseen, one would guess.

Given the tip of the brim,

the plumed and the prim,

the allure of the couture,

will reel them in I’m sure.

Prim plumes at Dior Couture Fall 2009

Gothic Grey Goose at Gareth Pugh Spring 2010

Image sources: Dior, courtesy of Style.com. Pugh image by Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/WireImage.com, courtesy of OnSugar.

Déjà Vu: Seeing Spots

The couture collections for Fall not only had me doing a déjà vu, but I was seeing spots – and stripes!

While zebra stripes and leopard spots have almost become as basic as black or red, it was interesting to see both come out of the same fashion jungle that is Couture Week!

Properly Tamed @ Dior Couture FW09

Galliano showed a belted, tailored version of the zebra jacket for his ’50s classic couture show, while it was more mod and zippy at Armani Privé. In all honesty, I prefer the Dior over the flashy Armani….words I never thought I’d say.

Zipped Zebra @ Armani Privé FW09

Leopard lapel at Armani Privé FW09

Same goes for the spots, seen at both shows. I prefer Dior’s version – the spots are a nice contrast to the patent belt, proper pearls and ladylike hat with netting.

Dior's Spotty Siren, Couture FW09

All photos courtesy of Style.com.

Select Déjà Vu from the Categories drop-down menu to read about other fashion déjà vus I’ve had.