Sometimes, it’s Paris – and sometimes, it’s Harris that you want.
Many a mood can be tailored by mode.
Auntie Viv's Harris Tweed will smarten you up, Scottish style.
Image: Liberty.
The Modfather’s New Clothes
As I told you about a couple of weeks ago, Paul Weller teamed up with pal Liam Gallagher to design a capsule collection of cool clothes for Gallagher’s label, Pretty Green.
The six pieces of High Summer basics have now hit stores on Carnaby Street and beyond. They include a “wet look” jacket (not leather as I originally thought), a tank, t-shirt, “Indian shirt”, scarf and cardy.
While the basic North American male may not consider the cut of these all that basic for himself, I think it’s not a bad start for the gents groovy enough to pull these off.
These pieces have personality.
The easy cardy - with elbow-length sleeves. Perfect if you are playing guitar constantly, no?
Each piece is finished with Weller's English Rose tab detailing. Nice.
The man, himself shows you how it is to be worn.
Careful, though, boys. The italicized warning labels on the site emphasize that the cardy, singlet (tank in this part of the world) and tee are “slim fitting garments“.
Same sleeve length on the tee.
A closer look at the signature label on the singlet.
The Nehru-collared kurta, inspired by the '60s.
Same colour English rose embroidery on the "Indian shirts".
Nothing says rock star like...
The site says it's made from "luxury polyester". Will have to take their word on that one, but I do like the Issey Miyake thing going on here.
The motorcycle (read: Vespa) jacket is at the high-end of the range at £175, with other pieces starting at £30. All pieces are also available online.
I would have liked to see a pair of well-fitting trousers, too. Perhaps those are in the queue for Fall. Weller will be working with Pretty Green for a while to come – according to the brand, this is the “start of a long-term partnership”.
Images courtesy of Pretty Green.
Green Team: Paul Weller, Fashion Designer
How often do we hear the term celebrity designer these days? It seems everyone and their little sister has a clothing line or perfume brand associated with them.
Fashion has become for the masses, and celebrities of questionable note offer up even more questionable mass-produced wares for us to wear.
For the most part, I’m not buying it.
Why? Well, because, I don’t often see the connection between the product and the person flogging it.
You see, I grew up listening to the music of bands (many of them from the UK), whose style influenced me, likely as much as their music did. I didn’t disassociate the music from the look of the band – they were all players on the same stage. I had infinite respect for those who bothered to get dressed for their jobs.
When Bryan Ferry put on a raw silk suit and sang his heart out, it was anything but the same old scene. When The Specials put on their braces – brace yourself, you were in for a romping good time – suspended in Ska style.
For some musicians, a foray into style is a natural extension versus a marketing agency strategy.
Liam Gallagher of Oasis, launched a clothing label and store a while back, called Pretty Green. Say what you will about the bad boys of Brit rock, but they had a style all their own. Need proof? Head down to the hipster neighbourhood of any given city. Chances are, traces of Oasis’ look is in the crowd.
The store’s been a hit amongst the Brits and beyond.
If the friendship and mutual admiration between this Gallagher brother and Paul Weller was a secret before (hardly), the name of the store was a giveaway.
Pretty Green is a song written by Weller, during his days with The Jam.
There were rumblings last year of a design collaboration between the two for the label, with Pretty Green even designing bespoke suits for Weller’s five-day run at Royal Albert Hall last Spring.
Paul Weller, backstage at Royal Albert Hall in Pretty Green bespoke, May 2010.
Well now, it’s official. The Modfather will be launching his first stand-alone fashion collection with the brand on June 23rd.
Paul's signature label for Pretty Green.
This, you see, makes infinite sense.
This, is fashion coming full circle.
Nice to see that we agree on a few things…
Weller, to those of you who don’t know him, comes from style stock. Through the music of The Jam, The Style Council and his 20+ years as a solo artist, he is the epitome of British music – having collaborated with the best of them over the years. Throughout this musical journey, Weller has managed to look immaculate. The word ‘cool’ has lost its meaning in our urban dictionaries, but Weller was and always will be cool – as the word was originally intended.
Before Sart was taking pictures of international males sporting bare ankles, Weller had set the pant length years before. When we all snickered at tassled loafers during the pointy shoe phase (which, I beg, I have yet to leave), Weller wore them. Men, of course, followed suit. And speaking of suits, he has always been tailored to perfection. There is something about the way he can don a pinstriped pair of trousers, a slinky sweater and wrap a scarf around it just so. It’s all in the details with Weller – the break of the pant, the fringe of the scarf, the slant of the cigarette. He is one cool cat.
He grew up in the ’60s scene on Carnaby. How fitting that his collection will now be shown in the Pretty Green shop on the infamous stretch of bricks and mod mortar, come late June.
Each visit to London, for me, includes a stop on this style street.
The capsule collection will have six limited edition items – but according to PG, this is the “start of a long-term partnership” with Weller, who designed all the items himself.
The motorcycle jacket from the collection. More like Vespa jacket, ya?
In a statement released by the brand, Weller said, “I’ve wanted to design my own range for some time and Pretty Green felt like a good home for my clothes. I guess my main design reference is somewhere between ’68 and ’70. The clothes themselves sit between being smart and casual with quality materials and tailoring.”
The first Paul Weller Collection for Pretty Green includes: a high-shine zip biker jacket (seen on Weller, here); a three-quartered length Indian linen shirt (intrigued by the sound of this), a luxurious Egyptian cotton long-sleeved t-shirt; a statement tank top with satin trim; and pleated silk scarf (you can see what a staple the scarf is to him, as it’s one of only six key pieces!). They will range in price from £30 to £175 and will also be sold online, for those of us on this side of the pond.
Look for a fuller Weller collection, this Fall. I’ll have pics for you of the High Summer collection as more pieces become available.
Mod style, zipped up.
Here’s a little snippet of a vid, when Liam was asked about the Weller rumour, last June.
[Update June 22: take a look at the full collection.]
Images: Royal Albert Hall backstage photo by Lawrence Watson, courtesy of Pretty Green. Original (and brilliant) Union Jack Mod illustration (used as quote background) by Guy Davies. All other images courtesy of Pretty Green.
E.O. Hoppé: Image Maker
This has to be the year of spectacular art, fashion and photography exhibitions. I have a running list of those I want to write about (not to mention, actually see!) but can’t seem to keep up with them all. You will see the inspiration slowly spill onto these virtual pages over the coming weeks and months.
One that I am sad to miss, being on the wrong side of the pond this close to its closing, is Hoppé Portraits: Society, Studio and Street at the National Portrait Gallery in London.
Emil Otto Hoppé – one of the most important photographers of the first half of the twentieth century – took pictures of noted figures from the literary, political, artistic and aristocratic worlds.
However, what I love more are his images of Brits going about the business of everyday Edwardian life.
1. Ruth St. Denis, dancer, USA, 1922 by E.O. Hoppé.
2. Reflections on Wet Pavement, probably London, 1923 by E.O. Hoppé.
3. Vera Fokina, Ballerina, 1920 by E.O. Hoppé.
4. Mona Maris, UFA Film actress, Berlin, 1929 by E.O. Hoppé.
5. Woman in mink stole shopping in Oxford Street, London, 1934 by E.O. Hoppé.
6. Film-maker Fritz Lang, 1929 by E.O. Hoppé.
7. Duke and Duchess of York, later King George VI and Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother by E.O. Hoppé.
8. Ezra Pound, 1918 by E.O. Hoppé.
9. Rendezvous at the London Stock Exchange, 1937 by E. O. Hoppé.
10. Savoy Hotel waiters feeding birds, London by E. O. Hoppé.
11. London by E. O. Hoppé.
12. Hebe (Constance Vessellier), 1917 by E. O. Hoppé.
13. Anna Pavlova, Indischer Tanz, 1920s, by E.O. Hoppe on exshoesme.com.
14. Sandwich board man advertising Shafi Hindustan Restaurant, 18 Gerrard Street, London by E.O. Hoppé.
15. Man reading at lunch time, Hyde Park, London, 1934 by E. O. Hoppé.
16. E.O. Hoppé, 1969 by Cecil Beaton.
He captured a London in transition, between tradition and modernity.
If you are in Londontown, hop on over to the Hoppé ex before it closes on May 30th.
17. The Houses of Parliament, view from Victoria Tower, London, 1934 by E.O. Hoppé.
Images: 1, 4, 5, 6, 9, 13, 15, 17. EOHoppe.com. 2. Life Magazine; 3. Corbis; 7, 8, 10, 12, 14. E. O. Hoppé Estate Collection Curatorial Assistance Inc.; 11. artinfo.com; 16. Cecil Beaton Studio Archive, Sotheby’s London.
Past-Modern Punk
This image had me in a time warp.
Past punk or post-modern punk? Ashish FW11
It’s very Spadina/Queen circa 1981 meets Bloor Street 2011.
Image: @TheLoveMagazine.
Brit Fashion Queens Talk London and McQueen
Two of my favourite fashion editors had a recent chat about London Fashion Week, McQueen and the coveted style of Covent Garden.
CG is one of my fave places on Earth, discovered on my first visit to the city many years ago. I never miss it on a return trip to Londontown.
Here’s Ah-na, interviewed by Hil’ry for Telegraph TV.
There’s a Twitter rumour making the social media scene, about Hilary retiring. I’ll believe it when I read the story from the Fashion Director of the Daily Telegraph, herself. And we haven’t heard a tweet from her directly, have we?
As #8 on the UK’s Twitter elite list, I can’t imagine my daily fashion feed without her – or the front row sans that sunburst, bike-spoke necklace or that fur topper.
Ms. Alexander in her trademark accessories and an Indian embroidered coat.
The Art of Dressing, Super Edition
Sometimes I come across an image that is just perfect.
It isn’t airbrushed, it isn’t a 14-year old girl in women’s clothing, it isn’t art directed.
I thought Linda Evangelista was the picture of perfection at Art Basel in Miami, earlier this month.
Tailored, yet relaxed. Casual, yet dressed. Minimal, yet detailed.
Yes, she’s a Supermodel. But she can teach us all a thing or two about not trying too hard – very little makeup, a nonchalant roll of a pant, sublime snake-skin flats, do-it-yourself hair and that air of self acceptance. Can you see it in her lovely green eyes?
The cut of this pant has changed my life in recent years - so comfortable to wear.
There’s something to be said for a woman in her 40s, accepting her natural beauty, dressing for herself.
Worn at an event where spectacle is everything, quiet grace speaks volumes.
The Modfather’s Mini
Well, it’s not actually his.
Paul Weller, an avid Mini fan and collector, has teamed up with the brand to design the exterior of a one-of-a-kind set of wheels to be auctioned off for charity.
Mini meets Modfather
The car shows off its mod stripes – literally – in a flurry of pink and brown. Weller says he was inspired by a Ben Sherman shirt he loved a few years back.
Wildwood
As you lean into the light...
Bid here and you’ll be Going Places.
Proceeds will benefit Nordoff Robbins and War Child.
Nordoff Robbins brings music’s transforming power to children and adults in need, through the delivery of music therapy services, music and health projects and community music projects, as well as education programmes and research.
War Child’s unique projects help transform the lives of former child soldiers, children living on the streets, children put in prison and girls at risk of rape or violence.
Come to my side child
don`t leave me alone
stay with me darling
I can`t face this on my own.
I need you to be with me
I need you in life
I want to forever
be yours and you`ll be mine
oh child
cos` we`re going places
never thought we could
through all kinds of changes
but still our hearts beat closer more and more.
More than just a heart beat
from the city floor
more than just the bright lights
that lend me to your distant shore.
I`m keeping my head up
and out of the sand
way `cross the rooftops
I`m gonna plan our escape
oh child
we`re going places
never dreamt we could
through all kinds of changes
but still our hearts beat closer more and more
Photos and lyrics courtesy of Paul Weller.
London Calling
It’s been a very British week.
I woke up the other day, craving a little London and went into the Bloor Street Burberry store to get my fix.
Then, I was invited to a lovely evening do, put on by Bonnie Brooks and her mod squad at The Hudson’s Bay Company, entitled the “Next British Invasion”, welcoming the new wave of young designers from London.
The event continued the following day with a series of trunk shows at The Room, as well as a very interesting panel discussion.
I have lots of thoughts on both events and will post them as soon as I can, but for now…
I am off to London to see (Mc)Queen…and other regal pursuits.
More soon, my dears.
Vogue, March 1960
Image courtesy of Vogue.com.
Sex and the City 2 – Trailer 2
This Spring has been a flurry of activity…and I missed this when it came out a couple of weeks ago.
It’s the second trailer for the film. I don’t care what anyone says, I watched this on HBO when no one else had HBO in Canada and I still love the girls.
How can you not get excited by the fashion in this trailer, alone?
Watch the first trailer.
Déjà Vu: Skirting the Issue
While many modern women can be said to wear the pants in the family these days, there seems to be another issue we’ve been skirting around. Men – in skirts.
Scotsmen have always donned their traditional kilts but skirts for men are becoming more visible…again.
It was very punk rock in the ’80s to have one – or know a guy who wore one. I remember picking up this issue of The Face magazine and thinking how sexy the spread was. It’s still one of my fave features of all time.
The Face magazine, November, 1984
I had forgotten all about it, until I went to a mind-blowing lecture at the ROM years ago. Andrew Bolton (rockstar costume curator at the Met) was a visiting speaker and discussed the finer points of the origins of menswear. I spoke with him afterwards and referenced the magazine (since he had spoken about men in skirts also) and instantly, he knew which issue it was from.
I must find a way to reconnect with Mr. Bolton. We clicked instantly – he – in his white shirt, forest green tweed jacket, black jeans, Westwood skull tie and police boots; me – in dark jeans, forest green tweed knee-length suit jacket, olive Kelly-esque bag and brown Costume National boots. It was a moment in the YouTube of my fashion memory. I am still sorry I missed that dinner afterwards.
But I digress…
Andrew B actually wrote a wonderful book on the subject – entitled Bravehearts: Men in Skirts – and the exhibition was shown at the V&A in London, in 2002 as well as the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC, in 2004.
The cover of Bravehearts: Men in Skirts by Andrew Bolton
Street kilt by Uth from the Men in Skirts exhibition
Men's sarong by Philippe Dubuc at the Men in Skirts exhibition in 2002
I remember being at a fashion event in Toronto and Philippe Dubuc actually wore this sarong. Again, the words, drop dead sexy came to mind. It helps that he’s 6’35″ and has French charm – knot to be tried at home, kids.
So all of these things were in my memory, until I came across this spread in Vogue Hommes Japan recently.
Neo punk in Vogue Hommes Japan, Fall 2009
And while I’m not a huge fan of Marc Jacobs ( I know, I know, I’m the only one – I don’t get his stuff at all), I do like his new look and he has been strutting around lately with a variation of this kilt/sarong. It looks great on him and he is cheeky enough to pull it off.
MJ, skirting NYC fashion laws.
Funny, don’t you think, that he’s carrying a Birkin and not an LV bag?
Then, of course, there is the master tailor Lee McQueen, who perfects the man skirt.
Alexander McQueen menswear show, Fall 2009
By layering it over pants, it looks almost like a blacksmith’s apron from a bygone era – a dark one. It’s one of the three elements in his version of the three-piece suit.
Perfet for the modern man, but oh, how I’d love one. Hey, equal rights and all that!
Image sources: The Face cover, courtesy of Daniel Gray, two exhibition photos courtesy of Richardzzz, book cover, Vogue Hommes Japan, Marc Jacobs, McQueen menswear.
Want more men’s fashion? See another Fall look and some Spring things from Mr. McQueen. Not quite punk rock, but very New Wave at Burberry – parts one and two. And, well if you are Prince, you can wear just about anything, can’t you?
Paris Style Icons Part Five
It’s been a busy few weeks, my darling readers…and I haven’t been able to keep up with all the activity.
There are the Paris adventures of a retail nature – great shopping tips to tell you about which will take a few posts at least.
There is the rest of NYFW and the fashion weeks from all our fave cities to come.
There is still Fall – as in, Right Now fashion - to dissect and decipher…and there are a couple of Toronto International Film Fest tidbits to share.
Pieces of the fashion jigsaw puzzle noted above will slowly start to fill this space as they leave my mind and reach out to my fingertips to deliver to you, the lovely beings on the other side of this technology.
As I wind down from a long day of a long, beautiful week, I am preparing my outfit for the TIFF premiere of Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky.
I am reminded of the elegance of Madame Chanel, one of the original Parisian style icons.
Coco Chanel, as captured by Man Ray
Fashion inspiration, at its finest. Merci madame!
Follow the rest of the series: Part One, Part Two, Part Three, Part Four.
Paris Style Icons Part Four
What would the streets of Paris be without Karl?
I was priveleged enough to shake that half-gloved, multi-ringed hand. Oui, oui, oui. And in Colette, the day after the Chanel show during fashion week. Call it fashion bliss.
In Paris, such is possible, non?
Karl Who?
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