New York and “we” may “all get dressed for Bill”, as famously noted by the royal We of fashion, Ms. Wintour.
However, in Bill Cunningham: New York, a documentary film of the original street style photographer by Richard Press, we get a glimpse of the man underneath the clothes.
Anna, the Big Apple of Bill's eye for many, many years.
There has been much buzz on Twitter from the featured fashion capital, where the doc was screened weeks ago to the sartorial set. When a film, especially a fashion documentary, gets that much buzz, I usually go in with mixed feelings.
I have, of course, been a longtime admirer of Cunningham’s work – but was always more intrigued by the characters he photographed and never really stopped to think about his own character. Not once.
A fashion moment, stopped. A still from Bill Cunningham: New York.
His images have captivated me and countless others. His eye is unrivalled. Through his photographs over the years, we have learned the language of fashion and on many an occasion, he has inserted new words into our visual dictionaries.
He has, in certain circumstances, even taught us to see.
Do you see what I see?
For some reason, I didn’t give the person behind the creative contribution the same sort of contemplation I have given to say, Kahlo or Kandinsky – or Steichen or Sundsbø. And frankly, I’m not sure why.
Bill Cunningham’s work is such a fixture, that perhaps I took him for granted.
Cunningham's first spread in the New York Times, December, 1978.
The mark of a good film, I think, is almost forgetting that you are in the theatre. And that happened to me a few minutes in. I followed the camera and filmmaker that followed Bill going on about the business of photographing the stylish, the noteworthy for The New York Times and I, too, took notes. Visual notes. I started to see what Bill sees.
And then I got lost – in the characters, in the photographic fashion history lesson, in the Details. I revisited photos I had forgotten, recognized random members of the fashion family. I sighed at the beauty and the memory of obscure references as a girl who has loved fashion with her whole heart from a very young age is wont to do. I listened to wonderful stories from Annette de la Renta and Harold Koda and Iris Apfel and dear Ms. Wintour, and I started to see Bill.
It was like seeing a famous painting for the first time – you had read about it from a distance before, but now there it was, before you, with visible brushstrokes and flaws and perfections. There it was, exposed. You suddenly could imagine the layers – the canvas, the gesso, the colours, the palette knives and brushes resurfacing that canvas, the patina that years had added on.
You suddenly, could feel the joy, the pain it took for that work to stand before you, for that artist to stand before you like that – undressed.
The artist in his studio - New York City.
And as he often has done, Bill Cunningham taught me another way of seeing. Again.
Richard Press, I thank you, too – for the view from your eyes.
The doc is distributed in Canada by Films We Like, who were kind enough to let me preview it prior to the public opening. It’s in theatres now.
There are some things in life we cannot seem to get enough of. Ice cream and Uncle Karl would be two things that come to mind immediately. Well now, you can have a double dip, with Uncle Karl’s latest career as an ad-mad man.
One sees Ms. Christensen from time to time – in the underground, avant-garde, below the radar sites and publications where culture, art and beauty lurk. Lately, she has made a few mainstream appearances again. Here she is in the May, 2011 Russian edition of Harper’s Bazaar, photographed by Luis Sanchis.
I have always looked upon her with reverence.
Other-worldly - the Supermodel in her natural habitat - floating ethereally.
The perfect do - no don'ts about it.
Sporting two of the season's big trends - electric blue and crazy prints - and still looking like an original.
She always looked great in black and white.
An intricate soul.
Breathtakingly beautiful.
Unabashedly feminine, even in a suit.
Supe-r star.
Hometown Helena.
"She's got cheekbones like geometry and eyes like sin." - Lloyd Cole in Perfect Skin
She is an original Supe, after all – and can you tell – my favourite one.
Karen Elson in the infamous antler headdress and gown from the Widows of Culloden collection, Fall 2006.
Stella Tennant in a dress from the Spring 2001 Voss collection.
Karlie Kloss donning a wooden dress from Number 13, Spring 1999.
Caroline Trentini in full bloom in a piece of art from the Sarabande collection, Spring 2007.
Raquel Zimmermann horses around in a prosthetic dress from It's Only a Game, Spring 2005.
Coco Rocha - you are one lucky girl - for wearing the piece I dream of putting on. The Kimono coat and flower box hat from Voss, Spring 2001.
As an aside, these museum pieces are being worn by actual bodies only because they are not part of the permanent collection of the Costume Institute at the Met – the guidelines of which dictate that an article of clothing cannot be worn after acquisition. Many of the pieces for the show have come from the Alexander McQueen company archives.
H&M recently launched a Conscious Collection – just in time for Earth Day.
The collection for men, women and kids, is made from environmentally adapted and greener materials such as organic cotton, Tencel and recycled polyester.
“It’s not just about organic cotton any more, the possibilities for creating a complete fashion statement with eco smarter materials are huge now,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, Head of design at H&M.
Clean lines for men.
Breezy separates for women.
The Swedish powerhouse retailer launched this initial collection April 14th, and will be designing recurring Conscious Collections in the future.
The white pieces for women are soft and romantic, with a preppier vibe for the boys.
So, this Spring, it’s easy to be green: wear white from head to toe.
Another fashion book on my list this month is the much-anticipated one written by Andrew Bolton called Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, which accompanies the exhibition of the designer’s work to open at the Met in May.
Savage Beauty Bible.
The tome also features contributors Tim Blanks and Susannah Frankel and of course, those unforgettable photos by Sølve Sundsbø.
The exhibition opens May 4th (with the infamous gala on May 2nd). The book will be out May 31st, but is available for pre-order on Amazon now.
[Update April 28th: The publishing date for the book is still listed as May 31st on Amazon, but I received my copy this afternoon - the exhibit hasn't even opened yet!]
It’s an April Sunday in Toronto. To the uninitiated, that means we can have four seasons happen in one day. Today, we’ve seen hail, snow, freezing rain – and alas, sun.
Stay calm and do the following…
1. Expect. Like any good Canadian, when it comes to the elements, one has to be used to this sort of thing by now. Better dress for it.
Expect the elemental confusion and come to a stylish conclusion. Bring a little Gareth to brunch.
2. Reflect. Watch the sparkle of snow on the blades of green grass. It’s Sunday – a little meditation and reflection is required after all.
Wrapped in reflective thought at Gareth Pugh SS11.
3. Deflect. If the weather is grey, use the day to try on your Spring things, while dancing around wildly to shiny new tunes.
Imagine what the mirror will do when you face it with this on!
4. Collect. Wait a minute, is that sun I see? Collect yourself and put on something pretty – quick – before it changes its mind again.
Frigid no more, so a frock is in order!
5. Connect. Call up your best fashion friend and take a new dress for a spin. It’s Spring. After. All. That.
Our Spring is short - best to enjoy it while we can.
Gareth Pugh SS11 collection snaps from Dazed Digital.