Re-ignited – And It Feels So Good

Anna may have gotten the first shots, but Carine pulled off the ultimate cover coup.

Mme Roitfeld booked Tom Ford to guest edit ze grand dame of magazines – Vogue Paris, for the December/January issue.

Ford + 15-year old Daphne Groeneveld photographed by Mert & Marcus.

[Click on images to view larger version. If you are having a Jerry Hall moment, you are not the only one.]

In cahoots? The pair at the amfAR gala in Cannes earlier this year.

Of course, Roitfeld insists this was before anyone knew that Mr. Ford was going to be designing womenswear, but given that Carine has been a muse for Mr. Darling for the equivalent of a fashion lifetime, I am guessing she had un petit hint.

A true fashion native, Mr. Ford collaborated with long-time friends such as Lisa Eisner for this issue.

Frankly, I believe this was all part of a non-masse, un-fast fashion plan by the savvy duo to do things a little old school, to have a long-term strategy (to you new marketing kids, it still works), to give us glossy content, via traditional (so old its new again) silky-paged magazines that you pick up on an actual street corner, cross the cobblestoned street corner in your stilettos with, and read while sitting at Café de Flore, deep claret lipstick lining your cup as you pour over pictures and imagine the tailoring of a jacket hitting your curves.

These two know how to give good fantasy, each in their own right.

Crystal Renn poses for Ford's editorial on the comedy circus that is plastic surgery.

Everything sounds better in French, non?

The two of them together are just reminding me of what fashion is all about.

I am tired of generic, low-end, high volume.

I want the excitement of a new arrival at my local mag boutique – even on days when I am already carrying too much.

Betty Catroux, one of Ford's muses.

The other Daphne G.

Lauren Hutton wearing my suit. I could look at this tailoring for hours and hours.

I want to have waited for a perfect suit for so many years – to have that hunger satiated – like biting into a Ladurée rose macaroon after ages of wanting that taste in your mouth again.

I want something that not everyone can have by lining up or going online. (This is also why I don’t believe the Tom Ford + H&M rumour. Why would a man wait so long to step back into womenswear, hold an exclusive show, not release any images of it and then go fast fashion as the next step? It doesn’t make sense to me and might just break my heart.)

I want the fantastical whimsy of fashion again – as I have learned to love it, photograph after photograph, gradually built up like the perfect ensemble.

I want the luxury of slow fashion, again.

Fashion is ageless.

I want images from current magazines to resonate with me years later, as the ones from old Detours and Taxis and Liz Tilberis Harper’s Bazaars and Anna American Vogues have for decades. They are vivid slide shows in my mind – remembered far better and in greater detail than some of the master artworks I had to memorize in school.

Starchitecture: Mr. Ford's Santa Fe "ranch"

I want my passion and desire for fashion back and something about this reminds me of a time when I adored it so – when it was still something that not everyone knew.

Reviving old passions…rooting new ones…isn’t that a perfect way to end 2010 and ring in a beautiful, glamourous, amorous 2011?

The issue hits stands November 30th. [Update Jan 4th: Darlings, this is Carine's last issue - pick one up before the collector's edition is gone! It hit newstands in Toronto over the weekend, after many delays with planes, trains and automobiles.]

All images courtesy of Vogue Paris.

Déjà Vu: Like Mother, Like Daughter

Hedi Slimane photographed Georgia May Jagger for the September issue of Harper’s Bazaar US recently and I couldn’t help but think how much those photos reminded me of Jerry Hall – Georgia’s model mama.

Mama Hall seems to have passed along a few trade secrets to her baby girl.

1. A pillar of strength, Georgia May Jagger poses for Hedi Slimane.

2. Just me and my shadow. Jerry Hall certainly has opened a door for Georgia May.

3. Waves, curves and a twist.

4. Curves and couture - Jerry Hall in Thierry Mugler - a classic combination.

5. The Siren - as photographed by Richard Avedon.

6. The Siren, Jr.

7. Was it a twist of fate...

8. ...or was she meant to walk in her mother's footsteps?

9. Lady to the Manor Born - Ms. Georgia May

10. ...the original Lady.

11. Oy, circa 2010

12. Coy, circa late '70s

13. Hold on to what your mama gave you, sista.

14. Thankfully, she's still hanging on to a little for herself!

See more Georgia: Rimmel London’s Honky Tonk Women.

See more Jerry: Déjà Vu: Love Scenes and Jerry Hall: Still a Southern Girl at Heart.

Photos 1, 3, 6, 7, 9, 11, 13 by Hedi Slimane. Image sources for remaining as follows: 2, 4, 5 – Richard Avedon photo, 8 – Getty Images, 10 – John Rogers photo courtesy of vH1, 12, 14 – Life photo.

London Stories: Visiting Mr. Yamamoto

It had been a very British week to begin with. With Toronto being inundated by a Brit Invasion (of the fashion variety), I found my thoughts wavering across the pond day after day.

I couldn’t help it. I flew to London.

[Okay, so there was another reason - but you'll have to wait for that story to be told - I know, I am behind in my storytelling.]

First stop? Mayfair – to Mr. Yamamoto’s flagship shop on Conduit Street.

The Yohji Store in Mayfair, London

Why? Well, because my travelling companion loves her double-Ys.

While Keiko went to Japan via Londontown, I took a paced browse through the store.

Done in a soft cream throughout (think of a Hamptons kitchen) with weathered wood floors, also painted cream – the vanilla decor provided the perfect backdrop for the black, black, black, grey, white and blue pieces of modern art that hung on the hangers.

Fedora feevah at Yohji.

Breathless, not sleeveless at Yohji FW10.

It wasn’t as sparse as one would imagine. This is not new minimalism, after all. This is a master’s work – and he is everywhere in this double-story space, which is as cozy as an oversized knit from his FW10 collection.

My current obsession - the longest sleeve with a thumb loop.

The sun streams in (such luck in London!) through large windows and the creme de la creme is spotlighted amongst the cream. The fabrics melt in your hand – regardless of whether they are silk or the thickest wool.

Creme de la Creme at Yohji FW10

While at first glance, the entire story seems to be written in black, you slowly start to see the individual phrases and sentences of that story – which are sometimes ironic, sometimes satirical. Sometimes the pieces are like reading Eliot for the first time. You are not sure you understand it, but even on a first read, you know it is something special.

Split Personality - one cool coat by Yohji

Split Decision: Japanese artistry rules the runway.

The best shirt-dress ever?

Layers of long and short, of asymmetry, of proportional geometry are sometimes punctuated by the exclamation of a train to there, the comma of a pleated bustier, the completion of a thought with a polka dot.

Gothenticity at Yohji. Your train, my goth queen, your train!

Don't look back. No wait, do!

You compleat me.

You'll have flare to spare.

It becomes a gallery experience with a live model – in this case, my friend Keiko – who pops out every few minutes to debut her selections. In some cases, we need to send in reinforcements to help her figure out the configuration of individual pieces.

These are not shift dresses, my dears.

These clothes are Japanese.

Ritual dressing.

It looks more cajh on the runway, but this dress was a showstopper - for some of us.

I love the women’s collection and there isn’t anything that doesn’t look good on Keiko, although the workmen peeping in through the window do dislike the strapless pleated wool gown and give it a thumbs down, opting for an edgier ensemble involving extra long Yohji Doc Martens instead. Only in London – the workmen prefer edge over elegance. Love it.

This season has seen the return of the pleated girly skirt. This one is my fave.

The classic knife pleat maxi skirt is back, too. J'adore.

I'd have to wear it with a pointy Victorian boot.

The upstairs of the store is the main  women’s collection, the back of the store houses the men’s pieces.

It’s the men’s collection that I coveted. Mr. Yamamoto, can you please make those jackets for women?

Each one is something you pick up, inspect and are in awe of. Patchwork, asymmetry, detailing – it’s all sublime. The clothes are very masculine, but so creative – architecture for the human body. The fabrics here are bliss, too.

The photo does not do this suit - or fabric - justice. Yohji showed his men's collection in Tokyo earlier this year, after 19 years.

The classic houndstooth suit with a dandy twist at Yohji Yamamoto FW10.

Blue for you, again. And that scarf.

Downstairs, it`s the Ys collection (which I wasn’t familiar with until this visit – Keiko gave me a quick 101) and Y-3, the sportier line. Ys is slightly more functional than the main collection – and offers a wider selection of colours and by wide, I mean grey, white and steel blue.

There is a white shirt I am still thinking of, that was a slight variation of this one…

Je need.

Our little visit to Conduit Street kicked off a wonderful start to our trip. The staff was as cozy as the store, recommending art shows and restaurants.

Next time you are in London, get a little dose of Japan.

Hats off to a design guru.

Yohji revival. There is a fashion god.

It’s good to have you back, Mr. Yamamoto.

Yohji Yamamoto: 14-15 Conduit Street, Mayfair, London, W1S 2XJ

Look for much more Yohji in London in 2011 – the Victoria and Albert Museum is planning a huge retrospective of his work next March. Of course, I’ll have full details of the ex closer to the opening. Keiko and I marked the date in our calendars when I heard about it a few months ago.

Store photo courtesy of Jasonyao Yao. Mr. Y and menswear images courtesy of Tokyo Fashion.com. All other images courtesy of Style.com.

Kaleidoscope du Coco

Vanessa Paradis graces Interview Mag’s November 2010 pages.

Photographed by Mikael Jansson wearing Uncle Karl’s Resort collection for Chanel, the current face of Rouge Coco and Coco Cocoon handbags is a vision in kaleidoscopic colour.

Va Va Va Voom, Vanessa.

Vixen Vanessa in Interview Magazine, November 2010

Read the full Interview piece. Did I mention it’s written by Patti Smith?

Images courtesy of the mag.

Déjà Vu: Sing Blue Silver

I came across the best photo of Renée Zellweger I have ever seen…

Renée Zellweger photographed by Alexi Lubomirski for Harper's Bazaar UK November 2010 issue.

…and it reminded me of Duran Duran’s video for The Chauffeur…

A still from The Chauffeur vid, eloquently photographed by Ian Emes.

…which of course, was inspired by the photographs of Helmut Newton.

Catherine Deneuve photographed by Helmut Newton.

Sometimes inspiration comes full circle.

Zellweger photo courtesy of MagXone, Chauffeur image courtesy of sssour, Newton image courtesy of Obvious Mag.

Forditude

Leave it to our friend Ah-na to snag the first shots of Mr. Ford’s return to womenswear, and as such, the return to the warm and cozy place in our hearts reserved only for him.

Or course, the buzz about his SS11 collection has been all a-Twitter since late August: will he be designing, he might be showing, he IS showing in September…

And then there was the media ban (social and otherwise) to the lucky few attendees of that historic show.

There were iPhone recorded leaks and vague descriptions after the fact, but I respected Ford’s decision to not unleash this mode en masse and have reserved posting about it until he was ready for us to know.

The vagueness vanished this morning, when Vogue.com posted these first shots.

Tom, with his women.

I’m not sure how I feel about glitzy animal prints but am loving the shag and the starburst accessories. I prefer my glitz in slightly smaller doses, like the paillette jacket on Stella Tennant below.

Slick and slim at Tom Ford SS11

Is it moi, or has Ford grown far too thin? He is a changed man in these photos by Steven Meisel.

Karen Elson (who seems to be everywhere!) with Mr. Ford, in a lurex number from his SS11 collection.

What’s always drawn me to Ford’s collections – other than the sheer sensuality of his clothes – are his suits. Tailored to perfection, the pants give you amazon legs and his jackets are made for curves. For me, he does the perfect interpretation of a man’s suit for a woman’s body.

Suits me just fine. Tom Ford SS11 - tailored to perfection.

Tom Ford gets us. He really, really gets us – and loves every inch of us in the most sensual of ways.

Good to have you back, darling. I mean, Mr. Darling.

Photos by Steven Meisel for Vogue. Read the accompanying article by Sarah Mower on Vogue.com.

Rolling Through Rajkot

The Star of India, as seen in Rajkot, 75+ years ago.

The Star of India.

That’s how they Rolled in Rajkot.

The Royce was the choice for a regal’s roadster.

Western luxury was no match for the cash and cachet of the courtly cluster.

If it wasn’t a bespoke RR, it wasn’t up to Maharaja muster.

‘Tis true, my dears. Those maharajas loved their motor vehicles, namely Rolls-Royce Motor Cars.

One of them – named after a rather large, 563-carat star sapphire – is currently on display at the AGO for the Maharaja exhibition, opening to the public on November 20th. I got a sneak preview of the car a few days prior to attending last night’s launch gala.

The Star of India, a Phantom II Rolls-Royce, is currently the Star of Toronto.

Shine on - what looks like pure silver is actually aluminum with a silver patina.

The Star of India, the second most expensive car in the world, recently sold at auction for €644K. In a coup not managed by the regal V&A Museum at the start of this safar of splendour known as the Maharaja exhibition, the AGO secured a prestigious, albeit temporary, parking spot for it inside the Gehry-fied gallery walls.

The car, belonging to His Highness Dharmendrasinhji Lakhajiraj, the Thakore Sahib of Rajkot, has moving headlights controlled by the steering wheel – unheard of at the time of its creation in 1934. It also has two small lights that flashed orange (naturally, to match), indicating that the road should be cleared for its royal passenger.

It is an all-weather convertible (another new concept at the time), with a retractable roof. The coachwork was made by Thrupp & Maberly.

But surely, no rain fell on those regals - and their bejewelled turbans!

Customized vehicles were de rigueur for these drivers and their lifestyles, which in many cases included a day or few out hunting. The Maharaja of Nandagoon opted for a steering wheel made of elephant tusks, while the Maharaja of Bharatpur outfitted his for tiger hunting – complete with searchlights and running boards for the hunters.

The ultimate luxury, at a cost to us all. Sacrilege. The Maharaja of Narsingarh.

1919 Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost, owned by Maharaja Bhupinder Singh, of Patiala.

Everyone's favourite Maharaja - Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. Be-dazzling, no?

Said Maharaja of Patiala in his RR Silver Ghost

As an aside, the Maharaja of Patiala didn’t have a Rolls or two – he had a fleet! Being such a loyal customer, he was given first choice of the Rolls-Royce Twenty when it was introduced. Like a box of chocolates (or ras gullas) you can never have just one.

Part of his colourful history includes a falling out with Rolls-Royce in the 1930s, when they wouldn’t accept any more orders from him.  He then commanded his entire fleet of RRs to haul garbage in Patiala City. The company finally relented to prevent their brand from ahem, being soiled. I wonder if HRH used them after they were cleaned?

One of my style icons, Gayatri Devi with her Maharaja + motor vehicle.

For this Rolls, the Maharaja of Rajkot, wanted the colour to be saffron ochre, a symbol of purity. He was replacing the 20-year old, 1909 Barker-bodied Silver Ghost open-drive landaulet inherited from his father. Personally, I think it looks more haldi (turmeric), but then again, who am I to question the majestic set?

His grandson Mandhatasinhji Jadeja, was quoted as saying, “It was specially done as this colour was not in vogue.”

Not in vogue, as yet, perhaps. The maharajas started many a trend. The biggest? The commissioning of luxury items from the West, including companies such as Louis Vuitton, Boucheron, Cartier…

It may not have been in vogue at the time, but I am guessing it started a trend. Love the saffron rim accents.

Other features include an ochre leather interior, a dashboard marbled with saffron paste (delicious) and a Rajkot family crest on the doors along with the motto Dharmi praja raja, meaning “an impartial ruler of men of all faiths.”

The Rajkot emblem - because the RR hood ornament wasn't enough.

The car, which was put up for auction earlier this year, by German collector Hans-Gunther Zach was purchased by the Maharaja’s family. Jadega indicated, “This car has high nostalgic value for us. Our family used this car during marriages and hunting expeditions. It has great heritage value and today it is not just the star of Rajkot but the country.”

The Rolls will finally return to the Motherland, originally leaving Rajkot in 1965 and travelling throughout Europe, once the exhibition concludes in April, 2011. Be sure to see it before it jets off, back to the Jadegas.

From a regal past to a colourful present - history on wheels.

I’ll have full fashion coverage of the gala for you in the coming days. I’m happy to say the word gala was taken literally this time when it came to dress code. There were turbans, true gems and the toss of many a sari palloo…

In the meantime, read past posts about maharajas and maharanis.

With files from RM Auctions and Haema Sivanessan, Special Project Assistant at the AGO. Historic images courtesy of (in order): World Amazing Records, Nitroexpress.com, How Stuff Works, Wikipedia, Rediff and indiannetzone.com.

All AGO photos by Yours Truly. And the Rajkot Rhyme? It’s all mine.

The Modfather’s Mini

Well, it’s not actually his.

Paul Weller, an avid Mini fan and collector, has teamed up with the brand to design the exterior of a one-of-a-kind set of wheels to be auctioned off for charity.

Mini meets Modfather

The car shows off its mod stripes – literally – in a flurry of pink and brown. Weller says he was inspired by a Ben Sherman shirt he loved a few years back.

Wildwood

As you lean into the light...

Bid here and you’ll be Going Places.

Proceeds will benefit Nordoff Robbins and War Child.

Nordoff Robbins brings music’s transforming power to children and adults in need, through the delivery of music therapy services, music and health projects and community music projects, as well as education programmes and research.

War Child’s unique projects help transform the lives of former child soldiers, children living on the streets, children put in prison and girls at risk of rape or violence.

Come to my side child
don`t leave me alone
stay with me darling
I can`t face this on my own.
I need you to be with me
I need you in life
I want to forever
be yours and you`ll be mine
oh child
cos` we`re going places
never thought we could
through all kinds of changes
but still our hearts beat closer more and more.
More than just a heart beat
from the city floor
more than just the bright lights
that lend me to your distant shore.
I`m keeping my head up
and out of the sand
way `cross the rooftops
I`m gonna plan our escape
oh child
we`re going places
never dreamt we could
through all kinds of changes
but still our hearts beat closer more and more

Photos and lyrics courtesy of Paul Weller.

Met to Honour McQueeen

It was only a matter of moments.

Someone had to do it.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York will be hosting an exhibition at the Costume Institute next Spring, honouring Lee Alexander McQueen’s work in a show entitled, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty.

Andrew Bolton, whom I’ve had the pleasure of meeting, will be leading the exhibit team for the show, along with lead curator Harold Koda with creative consulting support from Sam Gainsbury and Joseph Bennett, McQueen’s runway show ring-leaders.

Running from May 4 to July 31, 2011 and kicking off with the Costume Institute Gala on May 2, the exhibit will feature 100 pieces of McQueen’s work – from his graduate collection at Central Saint Martins to his final collection in February, 2010.

A dress from McQueen's final collection, FW10.

Bolton will be pulling works from the London and Givenchy archives, and will be ringing up Ms. Guinness to borrow pieces from Issy Blow’s collection.

Blown Away: Issy in McQueen's FW02 cape, as photographed by Donald McPherson.

Also featured, will be a “Cabinet of Curiosities”, with the fantastical accessories Lee created with close friends Philip Treacy and Shaun Leane.

Headdress by Shaun Leane and Phillip Treacy for Alexander McQueen

Speaking with WWD, Bolton said he is taking a thematic approach, not a chronological one. Themes will include “The Savage Mind,” “Romantic Gothic,” “Romantic Nationalism,” “Romantic Exoticism” and “Romantic Primitivism.” [There are descriptions of what these are in the Forbes article linked below, but I'd like to curate my own thoughts on this, as I flip through the images of past collections in my mind.]

PPR (which owns Gucci Group, which holds the Alexander McQueen brand), is picking up the tab for the exhibit, along with American Express and Condé Nast. PPR’s François-Henri Pinault and wife, Salma Hayek will serve as the evening’s honorary chairs. Colin Firth, Stella McCartney and Anna Wintour will be the co-chairs.

Where’s Ms. Guinness in all of this, I wonder? And Ms. Moss?

A book by Bolton and Koda will also be published to accompany the show.

Well, Lee McQueen, it is a sad day when I have to see your life’s work in a museum. Your frocks are now finite, which saddens me even more.

However, if it means that more of us can see the beauty you created, then I await my McQueen moment at the Met. If there is anyone I trust with this, it’s Andrew Bolton.

With files from WWD and Forbes. Images courtesy of WWD, Donald McPherson and Wallpaper mag, respectively.

Is Green the New Brown?

Two days after Diwali and after the New Moon, marks another annual Indian festival known as Bhaiya Dooj.

Bhai means brother in Hindi (bhaiya is just a more respectful way to refer to a bhai). It’s basically a tradition that honours the bond between brothers and sisters – when sisters put a tilak or tikka on their bro’s forehead, offer him sweets and gifts and the bro reciprocates with blessings, cash-ola and a promise to kick butt if anyone goes near his sis.

Fittingly, my cousin gave her brother a pair of kicking Chucks as his gift this year, but we all seemed to disagree on the colour of the laces. The brown suede shoes came both with brown and green laces in the box.

To me (and my wee nephew) the choice is obvious.  To my cousins, it was clearly the other colour.

To go straightlaced or loosen up?

So dear readers, I ask you to decide…

Be Brilliant

It’s Diwali.

Let your light shine through, whatever you wear.

These gorgeous LED dresses from Rhyme and Reason by Mary Huang will allow you to be brilliant, as you start this year’s journey.

Luminescent creations by Mary Huang

A scarf made for Diwali puja?

Leaning on light

The sparkle is in you.

Let your spirit soar from within.

Share the brilliance all year.

Wishing you love, light and luminosity this Diwali and for the coming year.

All images courtesy of Mary Huang of Rhyme and Reason.

 

Make Room for More Brits

Toronto was invaded by the Brits. Again.

The view from these eyes has always been a little bit British – having grown up with musical influences from across the pond and with crushes on Bri’ish boys.

However, I do believe there has been an inherent love of Ing-lund here in the Homeland, whether it is the crowd knowing all the words to That’s Entertainment (which made Paul Weller smile proudly at the Palais Royale show a few years back) or Mini Cooper hosting a recent Brit weekend capping off with a show by The Beat (that’s the English Beat, to North American natives). And really, could you think of fashion without mentioning a Brit brand? Burberry, Westwood, Paul Smith, the tailors of Saville Row. McQueen. But alas, they are considered the old guard.

The new army of hip designers from the Queen’s country were invited to invade Toronto (politely please, we are Canadian) by none other than, retail royalty Bonnie Brooks, President and Chief Executive Officer at The Bay.

A regal welcome *

Queen B of the Bay: Bonnie Brooks

The Brits (and a few former Canucks), namely Erdem Moralioglu, Mark Fast, Charlotte Olympia Dellal, Giles Deacon, Marios Schwab, Mary Katrantzou, Tom Binns, Nicholas Kirkwood and Jonathan Saunders, recently took over The Room at The Bay for a few days with events ranging from private dinners with media, an invite-only God Save the Queen Gala, as well as a panel discussion and trunk shows, open to the public.

I attended the ‘gala’ where media, socialites, Room patrons and the locally fabulous were out in full force.

The delightful Mr. Deacon

A few pieces from the Giles collection

Marios Schwab amidst his designs

Mary Katrantzou in fashion black in front of her pastel collection for SS11

Nicholas Kirkwood, the soft-spoken shoe designer…

…who creates hard-edged footwear for the rock n’ rolla in all of us.*

The lovely Charlotte Olympia Dellal. Her personality lives up to the vivid colours she dons.

Golden platforms by Charlotte Olympia, fit for a goddess? *

Jonathan Saunders, the kind of gentleman you bring ’round to your mum’s house for tea.

Laser-cut felt that would make any woman feel feminine, by Jonathan Saunders. *

The champagne was flowing, the designers were mingling and in the case of Deacon, spinning turntables.

DJ Deacon, with Canadian entourage in tow.

It’s not my usual schtick – covering parties. I attended because I have a distinct interest in British fashion. Interesting though, that I was not on The Room’s client list after having been a customer for over a dozen years. I guess much got tossed with the old decor.

It was at The (old) Room that I first discovered Liberty of London. I wanted to wear my properly eccentric Liberty tweed suit to the event, but it’s made to keep you warm on a cold wintery walk in the English countryside in the middle of December…and well, might have been a little too cozy for cocktails.

I opted instead, for a mix of Brit and Canadian: a red and white lipstick-print shirt by Auntie Viv bought in Paris, a high-waisted ankle-length black skirt bought in an indie designer Kensington Market shop (on this side of the pond) in the ’90s, a Ports 1961 grey pinstriped tweed cape, my Gothentic pointy Victorian lace up boots bought on Queen West before it turned into a mall, red Danier granny clutch, topped with the McQueen hat, from his Pre-Fall 09 collection. It was my homage to British design sensibilities as I understand them.

That’s me, with the lovely Natalia, whom I met on a French detour, in the Alaïa section. She designs couture pieces and is wearing one of her own.

I was surprised (or was I?) to find many dressed in the Toronto party uniform of LBD and platform pumps. Gala is a funny word in Toronto circles. I have yet to attend one that lives up to the implied dress code.  The few exceptions and the ones that stood out to me are featured in this post.

In fine feathered form, complete with fishnets. Is that vintage Mugler, I wonder?

Moving fast, wearing Mark Fast.

Charlotte and Carrie (from her marketing team) clutched style like no others at the fête. Charlotte Olympia clutches, of course.

The belt is Burberry. The jacket, McQueen?

Undoubtedly, an Anna Dello Russo fan?

She walks on gilded splinters. McQueen SS10 shoes, or a reasonable facsimile?

The lucky doc who happened to be in town just for one night, glam dress in tow. Simple elegance.

Style does not age, my dears. Quite the pair, complete with a pair of Dries necklaces, too. The bubble skirt reminds me of vintage Romeo Gigli. Sigh.

Well, at least the items on the racks did not disappoint. Brooks and her mod squad did a wonderful job in presenting each designer’s pieces.

Mary K’s dresses – worthy of an art gallery, no? *

A dress begging to be danced in, by Mary Katrantzou. *

Fringing on fabulous – by Mary K. *

Ms. K adds detail drama but keeps it subtle with chiffon and pink embroidery. *

The Room, for those two days, became an art gallery, where one could actually touch the luxe fabrics, see the intricacies of embroidered lace up close, pick up the shoe sculptures.  While some of these designers may be known to those of us who adore fashion and follow it like some do the Footie, it was a huge risk for Brooks and Nicholas Mellamphy, The Room’s Creative Director, to bring relatively unknown names to the attention of Toronto’s prospective fashion customers. Kudos to them for that.

The event had a classy air about it, to be sure. In addition to the clothing display, there was a gin bar, a Lula pop-up shop (which will remain in The Room until mid-November) and an avatar of the famed lounge at The Savoy.

Lula Pop-up Shop

The sign for the pseudo Savoy, flanked by a statement neck piece by jewellery designer Tom Binns. *

More designs from Tom Binns *

Layering it on, at Tom Binns. *

One fork accessory and you are done! A Binns necklace from the ’80s. *

One could easily approach the designers, whom were all very down to earth and in many cases, slightly shy. In this day and age of PR hype, it was nice to have a chat with regular people who weren’t necessarily given sound bytes or media training.

Erdem, at ease, in his home country (he is originally from Montreal).

A few pieces by Erdem.

Erdem fans. The woman on the left had one of the classiest looks that evening – love the black, white and gold combination and the earrings were just gorgeous.

I think, though, that this is the true essence of London coming through. There is a certain nonchalance about fashion in London. A close friend who lives there has told me that fashion is like any other industry there, it is part of the fabric of the city (pardon the pun). It’s the norm.

And after my visit to London a day or two after these events (posts to follow), I can see exactly what she means. What we call Brit eccentricity is worn by regular people on Oxford Street.

Mustard Mark.

Fast and Erdem are ex-pat Canucks who flew over for the event, but they weren’t the only Canadian creative contingent that evening.

Arthur Mendonca and Wayne Clark

Mr. Mendonca always looks so handsome. Love the pants and shoes.

And speaking of good pants and shoes, Mr. Bailey does not disappoint.

Hoax Couture’s Chris Tyrell always looks like a million – Pounds Sterling. Still remember a great conversation I had with him and Jim Searle at a Smirnoff party a thousand years ago.

I ran into Joyce Gunhouse and Judy Cornish of Comrags as well, telling them that I still remembered theirs was the first fashion show I had ever seen – at the Festival of Canadian Fashion. I remember that Swamp Thing was playing – those fashion and music memories never leave you.

I wanted to go over to say hello to Tu Ly, to chat with him about his time at Ports.

Tu Ly, always in a fashion class all his own.

He was standing over by the champagne bar. However, by the time I got to the spot and tapped whom I thought was Ly from behind, I realized it was another familiar face – David from Holt Renfrew’s World Design Lab, who also happened to be wearing black and white (like Ly!). We had a lovely chat about Mr. McQueen.

Dapper David, laughing it up.

Dare I say it, but it is quite possible that the men that evening were outshining the women in the room.

Bravo to the risk takers!

Printed, from head to toe.

Tartan and sparkle: a retro duo with style to spare.

These two are surely related to dear Auntie Viv!

Despite these few fashion daredevils, most Canadians play it safe when it comes to style.

This new wave of Brit designers will work better than the Westwoods and McQueens for this market because the collections are infinitely easier to wear. I say this, not with disrespect for any of the designers. Their clothes are gorgeous and each collection has a distinct personality.

Colour-dusted Kirkwoods

There is immense craftsmanship in Christopher Kane’s embroidered leathers (Kane didn’t attend but his clothes were on view), Erdem’s grey lace frocks and in Charlotte Olympia platforms.

Dressed to thrill, in Christopher Kane. *

Sometimes all it takes is one killer piece. Christopher Kane belted blazer. *

Erdem’s ethereal grey lace. *

And just when you thought it couldn’t get any better…he embroiders it! *

It’s all in the details, darlings. Charlotte Olympia green platforms, with the signature spider web logo. *

However, they are safer than a bias-cut, twisted, blossoming bosom dress by Westwood or even the plainest of accessories by McQueen. After all, this is the new wave of Brits. While the former lot of designers were all about rebellion, it seems these men and women are rebelling against the notion of what British fashion is supposed to be.

Like the designers, these clothes were unique, yet approachable. So, for Toronto, they should work. And maybe, just maybe, more of the masses will not wear a little black dress at the next party, but a laser-cut Saunders or a printed Deacon or a Kirkwood shoe sculpture paired with one of the above?

Ms. Brooks, Mr. Mellamphy, I raise my glass and tip my McQueen hat to you, for that.

All photos marked with * are by Yours Truly. All others are courtesy of The Bay.

[I also attended the panel discussion the following day and will have more on that and the individual designers in an upcoming post. My 'To Write' list is longer than my FW10 shopping list. Thanks for your patience, my dear readers. It's been a whirlwind few days/weeks/months with many new adventures. I have some great London stories to share very soon, too.]